Forgive this RantingT

WARNING: This entry is lengthy. Don't say you were not given prior notice.

My sister and I went grocery shopping after church today. I passed by a shelf full of 1.5 L Coca-cola bottles. I checked the price list which read around 30 pesos. I smiled to myself. Yes, I was back home indeed. The feeling was funny and satisfactory at the same time, not only because I did not have to deal with a trail of zeroes anymore when I want to buy something.

The night before my flight, every bone and nerve in my body was pulsating with excitement. I was up at 5 the next morning morning and out the door before 7 to meet my dad and his co-delegates. By 10, we were off to the airport. It was raining pretty hard on that day but I refused to let my spirits be dampened.

It took us four hours to get to Incheon...five if you count the time difference between the Philippines and Korea. Along the way, our plane would slip in and out of rockstar mode, headbanging sporadically. I did not mind all the jitter, having applied a tummy tightening technique my rollercoaster-freak sister taught me years ago. I just sat on my seat, slipping in and out of sleep, writing on my diary and listening to Cpop songs in the inflight radio. Once I pulled off the headphones and I heard two little girls talking behind me. The conversation was indecipherable but I was able to make out "ajumma" and I smiled to myself. Yes, I was really on my way to Korea.

We arrived in Incheon at about 7:30 in the evening, Korea time. I was practically taken over by excitement the minute I stepped out of the plane. I saw a sign which said "Welcome to Incheon" and half-begged my dad to take my picture with the sign. He adamantly refused probably because he did not want to embarrass himself, having a freaking tourist for a daughter. I was still sulking about the entire thing when I saw something when we were lining up for immigration - a television which broadcasted a series of ads for Samsung. The entire Incheon sign issue dissolved into nothingness as I identified faces one after another on the ads: Kwon Sang-Woo, Moon Geun-Young and Shinhwa's Eric Mun.

The Korean nationals were attended to first in immigration so it was pretty much a long wait. Dad's co-delegates then rushed to the phone rental services desk since GSM phones don't work there. Judging by their sheer number, I saw that this was going to take a while so I had some money exchanged and went phone booth-hunting. My mother's first request (aside from "Be careful!") was that I find a way to call her the minute I get to Korea so that she would at least know we got there in one piece. Thus began my first adventure. I walked over to a convenience store and asked a guy if I could buy a phone card. He spoke English fairly well although his pronunciation was difficult to understand. I decided to buy a phone card and asked him how much one would cost. He replied nonchalantly "10,000 won." I almost dropped my wallet. I was not used to the entire idea of purchasing small things like a phone card or a stick of gum by the thousands. Turns out, the card would cost almost 600 in pesos.

I walked over to a cluster of phone booths and saw one which looked like a hybrid of a computer and a phone. I eyed the mutated machine warily seeing it had a phone for a lop-sided ear, a computer monitor and a keyboard. I decided to stick to the traditional phone. I saw a normal-looking one and lifted the handset. A recorded voice said to me "Please select coin or card." I moved my eyes to the buttons and froze. The buttons, except the numbers, were all in Hangul! I frantically tried pushing any button I could get my fingers on but did not manage to get my phone card to work. I eyed the mutated phone standing behind me. I should be the last one to be frightened by things like that. I scanned the phone, looking for a mouse of some sort but could find none. I leaned my hand against the monitor as I did this, an act which saved me from further frustration. The monitor was a touch screen. I managed to contact my mother through a phone operator who, I could swear, hated me because she could not spell or pronounce my lengthy surname correctly. When I hung up after talking to mom, I espied instructions in English plastered on the other side of the phone booth. Sobriety always works.

We finally managed to get out of the airport at around 9 pm. The drive to Gangnam, Seoul took about an hour. After dinner, I faced the mirror in the bathroom of our hotel room and saw that my eyes had gone red and puffy, having worn my contact lenses straight for more than 18 hours. Our call time the next day was at 6:30 pm but I could barely fall asleep. I wanted to run out the door and see where the streets below would lead.

Basically my five days in Korea were nothing short of amazing. Like my friend told me, time is precious when you are there. I could rant on and on about the things which I enjoyed the most and if I were to do it chronologically, I could end up sounding like Antonio Pigafetta, Ferdinand Magellan's chronicler. But the best thing about my trip is that I got more than what I bargained for.

* Stationary fireflies.
One of the first things I noticed while cruising the freeway from Incheon to Seoul were the lights. There were so many streetlights which illuminated freeways, bridges and and highways in Seoul, I began to wonder how much the the government allots for electricity alone! They looked like stationary fireflies which dotted the skyline.

As we crossed the river Han, I noticed that there were several bridges. Each bridge was different from another both in structure, design and color, thanks to the lights. The bridges came in all sorts of colors such as green, yellow, blue and even pink and purple.

* A different kind of shopping.
Before I left, Mich had warned me that shopping in Korea was a bit heavy on the wallet. My initial experience with the thousands had left me alarmed and queasy. But aside from the fact that in Korea, hundreds meant loose change, I was given a new experience in shopping.

One of the first places we went to was Dongdaemun, the fashion capital of Seoul. A friend who had gone there before already told me about that place but I had not readied myself yet. One side of the street is populated by three big malls namely Doota, Migliore and Freya Town. Unlike malls in the Philippines which are short yet wide, the malls in Dongdaemun race towards the sky. If I remember right, Doota is around 10 floors. The other two are more or less the same. The area per floor is rather big too and each floor is devoted to one kind of merchandise like shoes, ladies' apparel, souvenirs and the like. On the other side of the street is a flea market where they sell antiques, pottery, bronze Buddhas and Andy Lau DVDs.

Namdaemun was the fashion capital before Dongdaemun. The streets are full of stores selling clothes, cosmetics, shoes, bags and DVDs. The streets themselves are crowded with tarpaulin-covered wagons which are overflowing with socks, scrunchies, hair clips, wallets, movie star memorabilia like calendars, mugs and pins.

We stayed in a hotel near COEX in Gangnam. Under COEX is a sprawling mall which houses so many stores. The prices are pretty expensive in COEX Mall but the items sold are pretty interesting to look at.

Another interesting shopping spot was Insadong. If Harry Potter had Diagon Alley, Seoul would have Insadong. The place was just teeming with people. Insadong gave life to the word "window shopping." The items sold there were diverse from chopsticks to cellphone charms, hanboks to wallets with Won Bin's face on them, chandelier earrings to mini Nanta drums. I was so amused by what I saw I totally forgot to take out my wallet. There were also street performers, people who sold street food while doing tricks and shop owners who would walk their dogs and allow people to pet them. One shop owner brought her white Chow-chow and black dachshund and they did not even try to bite when I petted them. The air in Insadong was thick with the scent of perfume, the whiff of something being barbecued, the musty smell of old books and of course, the voices of the people. In the afternoon, a dramatization and parade featuring Korea's ancient police were staged in the end of Insadong.

Sinchon is Seoul's equivalent to Manila's U-belt area. The prices are pegged at student rates and the clothes there are more colorful and lean towards the outrageous. I did not buy a single shirt there even if I really wanted to because there was just too many of them, choosing was already excruciating. The only thing I bought from Sinchon was a beautiful antique treasure box made purely out of wood. It reminded me of the box in The Classic which held the letters Cho Seung-Woo wrote Son Ye-Jin. Now that box contains the little souvenirs I bought in Korea.

Dongdaemun, Insadong (top, left to right) and Sinchon (bottom)

Technomart is an electronics market located near the train station in Gangbyeon. If I were to buy a new cellphone or a rice cooker, I would not go there. There were a total of 10 floors, each one housing a specific type of gadget, appliance or piece of equipment like TVs, DVD players, computers and peripherals, digital music players, calculators and component systems. Like Sinchon, choosing alone is stressful!

* Going a little outrageous (just a little).
In the Philippines, I try as much as possible to look like the person sitting next to me. Wearing something out of the ordinary is synonymous to standing out. Standing out is no good at all, especally if you don't want a knife poking you from behind.

In Korea, looking ordinary is synonymous to standing out. I got the chance to draw out a bit of my hidden kakikayan and eccentricity by wearing my layered shirts with frayed ends as well as long earrings and hoops I bought from a store in Divisoria. As if that were not enough, I had a section of my hair tied with colorful yarn! Dad shook his head in disbelief when he saw me. His friends took turns in calling me Dinky Soliman, which I seriously detested.

The day after, as a manifestation of my unfamiliarity with vanity, I took a bath, and completely forgetting about the yarn in my head, drew a comb down my messy hair. I touched something thick, remembered the little braid in my head and stared in horror as a small clump of hair got disengaged from the bound strip of yarn.

* The real meaning of safe.
On our first day, our tour guide told us that Seoul is one of the safest cities in the world. Naturally I did not believe him.

In my first night in Seoul, I was shocked to see people in the streets at around 11 in the evening with their cellphones, MP3 players and digital cameras out in the open. They were not even making an effort to hide these things. They were making and receiving calls in the middle of the street!

Every night, I would go out and sit on a bench near our hotel before I go to sleep. I noticed how people walked in the Gangnam area. They indeed did not seem as if they were trying to avoid somebody or something. Their pace was slow and leisurely, as if it were broad daylight!

In the Philippines, I have grown accustomed to seeing men in drinking sprees in the nearby tiangge or carinderia and avoid them like the plague. By the time they have had too much of their fill, they start getting rowdy and noisy and it is not uncommon to hear of drunkards getting embroiled in fistfights and slashing, usually provoked by an awfully ear-shattering rendition of Frank Sinatra's "My Way." In Korea, people simply slither into unconsciousness. In Insadong, I espied someone who had a little too much to drink. He had passed out and had been reduced to a still form, slumped near a lamp post. Not only did he simply stay silent and not torment the people in the streets like an Australopithecus, no one tried to mug him or steal his wallet and wristwatch!

* The Korean people.
The Koreans themselves are very nice, well-disciplined and extremely helpful. I have a Korean friend who I met for the first time when I went to Seoul. She was just simply wonderful and did so many things to make my stay completely memorable, one of which is detailed a little later.

I got to know the Korean girl who did my hair braid. She was just two years older than me and our hair braiding session became interesting because we started talking about a lot of things.

I met a lot of store clerks and salespeople there. In COEX, I was desperately looking for a DVD of MISA. The salesboy tried his best to help me even if he could barely speak English.

But I think the most memorable would be an encounter with a fortyish man somewhere near the National University of Education. I had just gotten off the train to meet my friend and I was trying to find a payphone so I could call her. I could not find one so I asked the help of a man who was working in a bank. He had gone out for a smoke and was about to go inside when I approached him. I asked him where I could find a payphone. I was floored by what he did next. He took out his phone and gave it to me, saying I could make a phone call for free!

* Five thousand years of history and richness of culture.
Korea's history is very colorful. Their museums, especially the National Folk Museum, manifest the pride that they have for their history. Their folk villages and the Gyeongbukgung palace are beautiful architectural structures that merely standing inside them seems to invoke images of time travel already. Koreans are also extremely proud of the Hangul, their writing system, which can express any sound.

Gyeongbukgung (left) and Namsangol Korean Folk Village (right)

There is a delicate blend between myth and fact. Similar to the Japanese who trace their ancestry to the sun goddess Amaterasu, the Koreans believe their ancestor was a she-bear who became a beautiful woman after passing a test given by a son of Heaven. Near the President's residence called the Blue House (which actually has a green roof) is a monument which has a sculpture of a bird in the middle of it. Apparently, that bird will appear in the event that North Korea and South Korea do reunify.

Of course culture needs appreciation. The good thing about Korea is that the people themselves appreciate their culture and try their best to preserve it. Their museums are well-maintained not only because they draw tourists like a magnet but because they stand as a testament to their country's proud history.

* Of aircon and air pollution.
In Korea, aircon is hated with such ferocity! My dad and his co-delegates were appalled as to why the room temperature could not be adjusted. Apparently the government has issued a law prohibiting hotels from turning on their airconditioners at night. Guests could choose to open their windows. After all, air pollution is unheard of in Korea. For a country with a population of 13 million, you would think their air was thick with smog. The air in Korea is crisp and reminds me of mint and eucalyptus. The entire time I was there, I never saw a single car leave a trail of smoke as it sped down the road.

* Underground, underwater.
I have always known water was my element and I was not surprise when a friend of mine confirmed it for me. When I found out COEX Mall had an aquarium, I immedately resolved to go inside.

COEX Mall is itself underground already. It seemed rather tricky to have an underground water wonderland but COEX Mall sure pulled it off. The scene stealer was naturally the underwater tunnel where I could see all sorts of marine life swim past me, beside me and above me - sharks, sea turtles and even the rare sawfish! I actually saw a sawfish! The aquarium also housed piranhas, smiling manta rays, electric eels. But my favorite had to be the monitor lizard which seemed to detest the attention and a humongous crocodile who obviously wanted me for dinner as it snapped it jaws at the sight of me.

* A musical extravaganza.
As a college sophomore, my Asian Art teacher showed us a video of a performance featuring Korean drums. I remember that the performance was so amazing it had captured my undivided attention. After the video presentation, my teacher showed us slides of the different kinds of drums used and the names of the drums were similar to the sounds they produced.

In Seoul, we had the opportunity of actually seeing a Nanta performance. I could think of no better adjective to describe it except "captivating." There were about four drums, including a little metal one which made a high-pitched sound. Not only did the booms and bangs contribute to a frenzied atmosphere. The drummers themselves seemed possessed by the music. With their eyes closed, they would move their heads swiftly from side to side as they hit the drums. During the entire performance, I believe I did not move a single muscle.

Later on, one of them wore a hat with something like a white strand of thick string attached to the top of the hat. Then while playing the drum, he would move his head around, making the white strand revolve from side to side or around him. It was simply amazing and an act like that would certainly require perfect coordination!

* Being a kid again.
Dad played hooky from his conference and accompanied me to go to Lotte World Adventure Park and Magic Island. There, I became a little girl again. It has been so long since I relished riding a carousel and I did just that! I also got on my favorite ride, Lotte World's equivalent of EK's Flying Fiesta! I also got a little more risky by taking the Flume Ride, synonymous to EK's Jungle Log Jam and Star City's Wild River. My knees got all wobbly the minute I stepped out of the boat. Then I realized I was not THAT plucky to try the Gyro Drop and their rollercoaster whose whooshing sounds drowned out the screams of the passengers.

* A train by any other name...and a cruise too.
Seoul boasts of one of the most efficient railway systems in the world. I was itching to try their subway, composed of nine lines which are somehow interconnected with each other. The fare would be around 900 won per person (about 60 pesos) but it was so fast, it was a much better option than a taxi which has a flag down rate of 80-90 pesos. I was at first apprehensive to try the subway because a friend warned me that the exits could be confusing if you did not know where to head. But thanks to my trusty map, I did not get lost at all!

And just to digress, Seoul is a pretty big place. I could not figure out how in those TV dramas, the characters always end up meeting in some place. But heck yah! IT'S A TV DRAMA!

On our last night, we took a cruise along the river Han. The night time view of Seoul was simply amazing and breathtaking. I spent the entire time out on the deck, taking pictures.

It seems like the cruise is a good idea for a date as many couples were also out on the deck. The cruise lasted for about an hour and the entire time, a local folk singer serenaded the passengers and played his guitar.

* Gastronomical delight.
My lack of adventure in carnival rides I make up for through serious food tripping. In Korea, I had a taste of their famous bulgogi and chicken soup with ginseng. Chicken soup with ginseng was our first lunch in Seoul. I was particularly excited since I could use the metal chopsticks for the first time (which, I believe, are easier to use than wood or plastic). Also I had always been fascinated by their rice, which seems glutinous. The entire exercise of partaking the lunch was a full-scale battle. The soup was so hot, blowing it was not enough. It was also quite a challenge eating half a chicken with chopsticks, not to mention getting the entire thing into your stomach. The restaurant owner took pity on us and gave us forks eventually. However what was interesting was that while I tussled with my dead piece of poultry, I realized that the glutinous rice was buried deep inside the chicken! Then as I probed deeper, the strip of ginseng floated like a miniature piece of yellow log.

Bulgogi was so much more fun to eat. Marinated meat is barbecued right in front of you. It is so hot the entire meal doubles as steaming your face. Then the chunk of still steaming meat is placed in a piece of lettuce along with strips of random vegetables and some chili-like ingredient which I do not recognize at all. The trickier parts come next. The lettuce is then rolled and folded to encase the meat, vegetables and the sauce in a square lumpia. I find it easier to turn my lettuce into a paperbag. To eat, you push the entire blob into your mouth, no biting off allowed, then add a spoonful of rice. Goodah!

I also discovered a nice snack in Korea. One of dad's companions bought silkworm for 1000 won. I did not say this aloud but the deep-fried silkworm looked like mini cockroaches with their leg-like protrusions curled inwards.

I stood in front of the cup with dad and his co-delegates and took one out using a toothpick. Muttering a silent "Here goes," I plopped it into my mouth and began to chew. The stuff was crispy and delicious! The taste was somewhere between dilis and chicharon. However I bet it would taste even better with suka.

* Getting through the language obstacle.
Most of the people I met in Korea did not speak English very well. They could understand what I was saying but it would be clearer for them if I added hand gestures. For instance in a restaurant, I was asking for directions to get to the washroom. She indicated that I go straight then right but spoke to me in Korean. In the train, an old lady tried asking me for directions but I apologized, saying I only spoke English.

In Doota, I was looking for souvenirs and the guy behind the counter was very helpful, speaking to me in halting English. I remember he started to look embarrassed and all of a sudden said in an amused tone, "I'm sorry, this is the only expression I know...ni hao ma?" I laughed and shook my head, saying I did not speak Mandarin. Apparently, he thought I was Chinese or Malaysian...he was not the last one.

* The DVD hunt.
One definite thing I wanted to buy in Korea was DVDs. It is very difficult to get LEGAL(!) copies of Korean movies and series in the Philippines, especially those which were were not aired by a local network. I have been itching to watch Marathon, a critically acclaimed film which stars another favorite actor, thespian Cho Seung-Woo. No copies have been available locally and I found a copy in Korea. I also bought a copy of The Classic!

But the DVD I really scoured Seoul to find was Mi Ahn Ha Da, Sarang Han Da (MISA). It was particularly difficult to find since most stores are out of stock. In COEX, I could not find it anywhere. In DVD shops in Dongdaemun and Namdaemun, it was not available too. The clerk in COEX even told me that I was not the only one desperately searching for a copy.

My friend suggested that I check out Technomart if there was an available copy. After shuffling between the 3rd, 4th and 6th floors, I finally found the DVD kiosks at the 8th floor. All but one had run out of stocks for MISA and in that one kiosk, it was the only copy left. Yes, that copy was truly meant for me!

* One race, two flags.
On our last day, we were able to take a trip to the Demilitarized Zone in Paju City. Video and photography were forbidden, except in places designated by the military. We were given the opportunity to go inside one of three infilatration tunnels built by North Korean forces in an attempt to penetrate the South. The part of the tunnel open to the public was about 350 meters long which was inclined at an angle of 0.3 degrees. It was very cold inside and as I walked, I began to envision myself as Jang Dong Gun or Won Bin in Taegukgi. If going down the tunnel was a challenge, going back up was agonizing. The entire walk was so long and tiresome, it is not recommended for people with claustrophobia and heart disease. The tunnel was built with a direction towards Seoul but was not finished because the Southern forces discovered this. When questioned, the North coated the walls with coal and explained that the tunnel was a coal mine.

An observatory shows the DMZ thick with foliage that the barbed wire fence which serves to separate North and South Korea is no longer visible. A small lake serves as a point of reference for determining which is North and which is South, along with two flags fluttering in the wind which face each other silently in a stand-off which has lasted more than half a century. No man has stepped on that area for that period of time. The absence of man and the disturbance hw brings has allowed a unique ecosystem to emerge in the DMZ, with a diversity of plant and animal species using that area as habitat. It is like nature is telling both Koreas to erase the animosity between them and live together in harmony. Sometimes, the lessons men need can be learned from animals.

For 500 won, you can rent a telescope which allows you to view the city of Kaesong in North Korea, the second largest city after Pyeongyang. Through the telescope, I saw the stark difference between Kaesong and Seoul. Seoul was progressive whereas Kaesong was more rural in appearance. Once again, the irony struck me. The North upholds the principles of communism, of equally dividing the resources for everybody. The South was more capitalistic and believed in fostering competition. But the South was roaring with progress whereas the North was sinking into a lull.

Our tour guide told us a story of an old man who used to sit on that observatory everyday. A soldier asked him what he was looking at. He responded that he left a wife and a 2-year old son in the North just before the war broke out. He bade them farewell in the morning because he had to work on a project in the South. He never got go back ever again and all his life, he has been tormented with thought of his wife and son, not knowing if they are alive or dead and what has become of them both.

There is a train station in Paju called Dorasan. By the looks of it, one would think the station is in use. There is a waiting area with blue chairs. A guard stands by the door and visitors can get their passports stamped. But what is most heart-wrenching is the sign at the entrance which, I suppose, leads to the train. The sign says "Pyeongyang." In the event that the two Koreas do unify, that guard will move aside and allow people to pass, taking the passengers to Pyeongyang, past the years of animosity and hatred. But as of now, the soldier remains at his post and the station's train and railway remain unused, silently waiting for the day the mythical bird appears.

And of course, like I said, my list of things to do became a list of things I have done.

* Eat kimchi.
As expected, the kimchi I tasted in Korea was extremely delicious. The blend of flavors was just right, it was lip-smacking. However I could not bring myself to eat kimchi in the morning as part of breakfast. That was the only time of day I did not have it in front of me.

However not all kimchi are made the same. The best was the one served to us in the chicken soup and ginseng restaurant. I was served kimchi alongside a curry-and-rice lunch in a COEX foodcourt but that one overdid the chili. It was too spicy it overpowered the other flavors.

* Get the 411 on tea drinking.
I did not get to attend a tea ceremony of sorts but in every meal, we were served a cup of tea. Tea was an essential part of every meal and was believed to aid digestion.

* Drink soju in a tent bar.
I did not get to drink soju but I did get to try something stronger: ginseng wine. In the chicken soup and ginseng restaurant, the meal was to be washed down by a shot of ginseng wine. I cautiously eyed the small ceramic cup filled with the clear, deceptive liquid up to the brim. I watched my dad take a sip and saw his face reduce itself into a series of tiny furrows. I took the cup and took the tiniest sip. It was like taking a swig at a bottle of rubbing alcohol. My eyes immedately began to water. Dad's co-delegates laughed at me, saying I need not worry since they could take turns giving me a piggy-back ride to the hotel.

* Watch a movie in a cineplex...WITHOUT SUBTITLES.
In COEX, I spent two hours inside a movie house. The minute I found out that The Duelist was still being shown, I decided against seeing April Snow and another movie which featured Kim Jung Eun in a May-December romance with a 17-year old teenager. I had a hankering for some action and besides, I figured The Duelist was a movie I could get through without being dependent on subtitles.

It was actually a generally entertaining movie, though I wish I could at least understand what was going on in terms of the conversations. However I did not need subtitles to deduce that Kang Dong-Won and Ha Ji-Won had a thing for each other even if one was a policewoman and the other was an assassin/swordsman.

Ha's ability to contort her pretty face elicited laugher from me, along with the other people inside the moviehouse. I was fascinated wth Kang's all black getup and pale skin which made him look sullen yet extremely mysterious. Yet the runaway hit was his nicely layered straight hair which, I believe, was the key to his appeal. But I especially liked the swordfight scenes between Kang and Ha. The skill was inferior to the ones displayed in movies like Hero, but I loved the interplay between dark shadows and gleaming lights which made the film an overall visual delight.

* Visit a Buddhist temple or shrine.
Behind COEX was Bonggeunsa, one of the more popular temples in Seoul. It was indeed a retreat from the hustle and bustle of busy Gangnam. The place was quiet and solemn, full of devotees and worshippers. I just walked around, taking pictures here and there and I was wary of taking videos since I might offend some people.

* Have a picture taken wearing a hanbok.
This was one I was so desperate to do. We were practically running around the National Folk Museum I was unable to rent a hanbok and have a picture taken while I was wearing it. So I made up my mind to go to Lotte World where a friend of mine told me you could do that too.

I was greeted by a deluge of hanboks in all sorts of colors and designs. The lady gave me a dark green hanbok which, she said, was the costume of a queen during the old days. I did not choose that since that was the one my friend wore when she went there. I liked a navy blue hanbok with gold embroidery but I was worried it might look dull in the photographs. So I settled for a fuchsia pink and dark blue hanbok.

The lady helped me wear it and she added a hat on my head to complete the entire look. On hindsight, I should have worn something more vibrant like the red one with striped sleeves.

Walking around in a hanbok needs some getting used to. While I was looking for a nice photo spot while wearing the hanbok, I ran into a group of Koreans who were around my age. They looked like they were suppressing their laughter so I turned around and ran back to the lady with the hanboks. I ended up tripping on the dress four times. Thank God I did not rip the dress. Hmmm...I should practice with a blanket at home.


* Keep eyes peeled for movie stars.
Our tour guide said that Gangnam was a good place to spot movie stars. However I only knew the top-notch stars in Korea so the possibility of seeing Won Bin in the middle of the street would be close to impossible. My lack of visual tinseltown luster was made up for by the billboards and posters I saw there: Jang Dong-Gun for Anycall, Song Hye-Kyo, Kwon Sang-Woo and Bi for skin products, Kim Tae Hee for Samsung, Jung Woo-Sung for Giordano, Moon Geun-Young for pizza, Cho Seung-Woo and Kang Dong-Won for clothing...the list just goes on and on.

Star spotting, billboard style: Lee Dong-Gun for a mobile phone, "Sassy Girl" Jeon Ji-Hyun for
Olympus, Ha Ji-Won and Jo In-Sung for a hair salon and Kim Rae-Won and Im Soo-Jung
for the clothing company Clr!de.

As if that were not enough, I wanted to just drop by the district office in Mapo where Ji Sup was doing his military service. I did not have any plans of going inside and plead with him to give me an autograph. I just wanted to stay outside and pretend I was there for some other reason except to try and see how he looks like in person. But I never had the time because we were following a strict schedule with the tour guide. When we went to the World Cup Stadium, I saw signs which gave directions to "Mapo District Office" and I could do nothing more than sigh. We then dropped by the Amethyst Factory and I was sinking into semi-depression when my dad pointed something at me. I was actually in front of the road on which the district office located! I just stood there, staring at the road and taking a video of it, bewailing the best illustration by far of the cliche "so near, yet so far."

* Go to places where some movies or series have been shot.
For my sister, this was the highlight of my trip. In Lotte World, the carousel I rode on was the one used for Stairway to Heaven. Shots of Choi Ji-Woo and Kwon Sang-Woo were also taken in the skating rink of Lotte World.

I got to meet my friend in Korea who took me to some places where So Ji Sup shot some of his series such as What Happened in Bali and of course, MISA. A bulk of MISA scenes were shot in Gangnam and I was telling my dad "Is that fate or what?" We went to the Ritz where some shots of Bali were taken and also Kang In Wook's house. The house was on top of a steep hill that my tongue was hanging out by the time I reached the top. The people who lived there were so nice to let us in and allowed us to take a look at the house.

I got to be Eun-chae for a day when we visited the house of Moo-hyuk's sister in MISA. I am not sure where that was but the people (an old couple) who owned the house were nice enough to let us in. I gave them a box of detergent as a thank you present. My friend made me sit by the post where Moo-hyuk asked Eun-chae not to go as well as by the stone steps leading to the house where Eun-chae waited for Moo-hyuk to come home in the last few episodes.

We also dropped by St. Mary's, a Catholic hospital where a bulk of MISA scenes were shot, including the basketball game between Yoon and Moo-hyuk as well as Yoon's house which was located in Gangnam. And I could never forget that crossroad in Gangnam were Moo-hyuk ran into Eun-chae in the middle of the street and wrapped her with his coat because it was cold.

Scenes from MISA (top to bottom): In the pedestrian lane where Moo-hyuk came upon a drunk
Eun-chae; Yoon's house; the overpass where Moo-hyuk received a call from Eun-chae.

I do hope to get to go back to Seoul, especially with my mom and my sister. When I was there, I was taught how to correctly pronounce "Gahpsamnida." The bowing while saying "Annyeong haseyo" was so infectious, I soon found myself doing that when I was greeted. In Korea, my adventurous and crazier side took over and it has since taken a backseat when I arrived home. I was telling my dad that not getting to see Ji Sup in person was one of the many indications that I indeed had many reasons to go back. And besides, I had staked my claim on a sidewalk bench near our hotel. Every night, I would go out and just sit there in a warm sweater, and feel the breeze blowing at my face. For some reason, sitting on that bench made me feel I was truly in Korea. I hope that bench is waiting for my return someday.

Hanguk Ro Gajuseyo

If you think my Korean has progressed and finally gone beyond "Annyeong," think again. The Korean phrase in the title (which I believe means "To South Korea, please") is courtesy of a quick guide to Korean talk which I found in a useful Korean website written in English. And I need to memorize that line (along with about 10 other basic Korean phrases)...FAST!

I really need to get this off my chest and I have to do so now...I AM GOING TO KOREA ON SATURDAY! ^_^

Three months of suppression made me burst out like an atomic bomb. A wanderlust, my mom calls me and I do not deny my feet always itch to visit a new place. In my room, there is this a shelf located above the dresser. Whenever I get home, I never fail to wipe it clean since it becomes a favorite place for spiders to spin their webs. That shelf contains little souvenirs of the places I have been to, whether outside or within the Philippines. For example, I have a charm bracelet from Universal Studios, a small silver spoon from a souvenir shop in Niagara, an embossed keychain I bought the first time I went to Enchanted Kingdom, a glass bottle from Boracay and even a wooden keychain with dangling miniature cutlery I purchased when I took a sidetrip to Cebu back in high school. And just so you know, I don't have the infamous "man-in-a-barrel" which populates souvenir stalls in Baguio. Cleaning this shelf takes hours not really because the entire activity is difficult. It's just that before I go back to arranging the items once more on the now pristine shelf, I carefully examine each one and like a portkey/time machine, I am once more drawn back to the places I once visited.

To say that I am excited about my impending Korea trip is an understatement in its most horrible sense. In fact, it could be the understatement of understatements! The Korea trip is the first thing which enters my head in the morning and the last thought to leave before I fall asleep every night. Sometimes, I would spontaneously combust into uncontrollable giggling, usually in front of my sister, who would then dart her eyes around their sockets like a pinball machine. One time I woke up in the middle of the night to relieve my bursting bladder and saw that I forgot to turn my phone off. Before pushing the power button, the Korea trip once more popped into my head out of nowhere so I texted Sue that I really couldn't believe I was getting the chance to go to Korea, even if it was just for a couple of days. She later texted me when there was daylight, with a hint of hypnotism, "Yes, you are going to Korea and you are going to bring back Won Bin for your dearest friend, MOI!" I have yet to delete that message, if only to remind me of some of the "missions" my friends have forced me into upon learning of my trip.

The reasons for my overexcitement are both varied and, I believe, valid. After all, it has been roughly eight years since I had ever been to a place outside Philippine territory. For a labelled wanderlust like me, it's almost similar to a bird getting freed from a cage after years of imprisonment! Add that to the fact that this would be my first time to visit a country located in Asia. My appreciation and interest in Asia was a late bloomer, to be blamed perhaps on the fact that I grew up bombarded with Disney. It began with my Asian history classes in mid-high school and have risen steadily ever since I took classes on Asia-Pacific countries and their respective histories in college. Despite the severe memory work, those classes so roused my interest in the rich and exotic cultural heritage of countries in Asia, it was almost like smelling a whiff of steaming rice doused in enormous amounts of curry powder.

Of course, the anticipation of my Korea trip is to be heavily blamed on the shift of my Hollywood from California to Seoul. My 3-year old fascination with Korean music, movies and TV series could be considered a manifestation of the hanryu (Korean Wave) currently invading the entirety of Asia (take for instance My Sassy Girl, Tagalog version).

Sue, Em and Kate (the frequent spammer in my shoutbox in the sidebar of this blog) told me I could finally get to wear my shirts in layers. I have always liked doing that but it gets too warm here that it becomes uncomfortable. And I have always had a penchant for turtlenecks...I can wear them there without feeling sweat rolling down my nape and back,

An indication of my lunacy would be the fact that my dad (my travel partner this time) was surprised that I knew so much about the place more than he did, especially since I was just tagging along for the ride. I was telling him about the places and parks around the area and he was even more dumbfounded to know that I had already pored through a map of the place days before our visa was approved.

Less than a week before my trip, I am still adding a list of things I have to do in Korea. My list so far includes the following:

* Have a picture taken wearing a hanbok.
It was interesting watching Han Ji Hye in Sweet 18 walk around doing house chores while donning the traditional Korean attire.

Getting to wear a hanbok was what my sister was particularly insistent about. What I like most about the hanbok is the material (silk, I think) which makes the dress look soft and flowing. I was wondering why some women wear a hat to match the hanbok while others don't. I would certainly want to try the hanbok with the hat.

* Eat kimchi.
The first time I ate kimchi was in Market! Market! when it was served as a side dish to a chicken barbecue meal my aunt bought me for lunch. With my fork, I picked up a piece of the pickled cabbage and tossed it into my mouth. I did not like what I tasted so I pushed a huge mound of rice into my mouth.

I realized then that kimchi tasted great with rice and the more helpings I had of kimchi, it tasted better. I may be weird but I think I would like it even more if it were served warm, not cold. But then again I cringe at the idea of eating champorado with tuyo so my taste could be ridiculous.

* Watch a movie in a cineplex...WITHOUT SUBTITLES!
The key to understanding Korean movies would be the English subtitles, some of which are made by fans. To complete my cinematic experience, I intend to watch April Snow (if it is still showing there) when I get to Seoul...despite all the negative writeup I have been reading. If not, other choices would be Sympathy for Lady Vengeance and Duelist. Best of luck to me! Need to know if I can have a career in linguistics.

* Go to places where some movies or series have been shot....and keep my eyes peeled for movie stars.
I don't know how big my chances are of getting to see movie stars or singers when I'm there. But then my friend Mich recently saw Freddie Prinze Jr. so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. But I'm hoping I get to go to Lotte World. Mich said that the skating scene in Stairway to Heaven (bottom left) was shot there as well as stills of Kwon Sang Woo and Choi Ji Woo in the carousel...I would want to see that even if I am not a fan of the drama. What has really got me excited though is that I recently learned that two of the places where my ultimate favorite K-serial MISA (bottom right) was shot are conveniently located near the place where I will be staying! ^_^

If only people were still allowed to visit So Ji Sup in the Mapo district office...but that's all right! ^_^

* Visit a Buddhist temple or shrine as well as houses of nobility.
There is always a story behind every temple and shrine...and I would certainly want to know what those stories are. Add that to the fact that art in temples have always been awesome and intricate.

* Get the 411 on tea drinking.
What I understand about tea drinking is that it is not simply concerned with holding a cup of tea and downing it. The entire exercise itself is interesting and relaxing, as if the tea drinkers have all the time in the world to indulge in this activity when the rest of the world seems to be always in a hurry.

* Drink soju in a tent bar.
It is not uncommon to see actors in Korean dramas trying to intoxicate themselves with this alcoholic drink served in transluscent green bottles. For a time we did not know what it was called so Em decided to refer to it as Sprite. And usually they would drink these in tent bars or restaurants with monobloc tables and chairs. I plan to momentarily suspend my self-imposed mortification and have a bottle of soju inside a tent bar. I just need to be sure I'm with someone who can give me a piggyback ride home, given my rather low alcohol tolerance level.

Lee Dong Gun and Kim Jung Eun having a drink of soju in "Lovers in Paris." Kim
has a little too much to drink and is brought home by Lee...piggy-back style.

As I go to Korea, I carry with me a mission from my friends which I fear I could not do. I have been tasked to bring back Lee Dong Gun, So Ji Sup, Won Bin, Kwon Sang Woo, Kim Rae Won, Go Soo and Jo In Sung...I cannot seem to figure out how I could make them fit inside my luggage without their limbs dangling out of my bag. Any ideas?

Farewell to a Champion

One of the things I hate about sleeping over in my sister's dormitory room is that I miss the news. I developed a habit of watching the news when as a high school sophomore, my high school Asian history teacher would give a pop quiz on current events in almost a weekly basis. Since the latest single at the top of the MTV Charts was not considered current events, I would almost always be assured of landing a zero (or a 1 or 2 if I'm lucky) during such pop quizzes that I finally decided it was time to read the other parts of the newspaper aside from the Entertainment and Comics sections as well as regularly tune in to "The World Tonight" before I go to sleep.

Two days ago, I was helping my sister with her homework while trying to tabulate the results of a survey I was doing for my thesis. I forgot to turn on the radio and listen to the simulcast of the 6 o'clock news. I ended up missing something very important.

When I called my mom in the morning, she said to me "Haydee Yorac is dead." My still half-asleep brain suddenly came alive, the zombie-like neurons sparking with life at the mention of the name. All I managed to muster was an "Ahay," complete with my trademark Ilonggo cadence, perhaps one of my few commonalities with the late government icon.

Losing someone like Haydee Yorac would definitely elicit some sort of reaction similar to mine - a drooping head, downcast eyes, a grim mouth, all punctuated with a heavy sigh, as if losing someone or something of dire importance. Yes, losing Haydee Yorac was like dropping a prized samurai to a precipice of infinity, saying goodbye to the sword whose razor sharpness could easily cut through the diaphonous fabric of lies which deceptively strangle the government and the bureaucracy into absolute paralysis.

I was 11 when I first knew about Haydee Yorac. I remember I was in the airport to fetch two cousins who came for a visit. One of them went up to my mom and breathlessly told her that they were in the same flight as Haydee Yorac. My mother excitedly reacted to the news while I sat in the backseat of the car, trying to shake my head like a glass paperweight, the type with the white flaky things swirling in the middle. Finally I got the courage to interrupt their conversation and asked "Who's Haydee Yorac?" The three of them turned to me as if I had committed the gravest sin in the world, enough to land me in the pits of hell with Judas, Cassius and Brutus (if Dante were to be believed). My cousin said "You don't know Haydee Yorac?" That's what happens when you're 11 years old and all you watch is MTV and Cartoon Network. I shook my head and my mother was about to launch into her whole narration of Yorac's past and achievements when my cousin said "There she is!" I poked my head out of the car and shifted my glance to the mass of heads swirling about near the airport entrance. I saw a woman dressed in purple with big, curly hair in the middle of the crowd with sunglasses over her eyes. That was the only time I had seen her in person and I will never ever forget her face - hard and worn, strong, fearless with an air of confidence, but not haughtiness, about her.

In the midst of the chaos and political instability surrounding PGMA's tenure as President of the Philippines, she said that our government has been so besmirched in a swamp of corruption that once you decide to join its ranks, it is fairly difficult to keep yourself clean. I will never forget that since I was eating dinner in Em's house in Laguna and I abandoned my half-eaten plate to hear PGMA quote those overused words from the Bible "Let him who has no sin cast the first stone."

At that time I was consumed by my anger at the audacity of PGMA to attempt to pull the entire bureaucracy with her under the spotlight of allegations that she rigged the 2001 presidential elections that I forgot to mention that someone was actually worthy of casting the first stone smack in GMA's mole. Haydee Yorac's life is proof that there is indeed such a thing as principle, that it is still very much possible to stand up for what you believe in, that right can still prevail in a society which seemingly favors the wrong. She chose to work directly in government of all places, the seat of bedlam and the hive of thieves in the guise of serving society. She was driven by her search for truth and justice and she truly lived up to the name of her title as head of Presidential Commission of Good Government. She was not concerned with minor projects. In fact she dealt with controversial issues such as the Marcos ill-gotten welath and the coconut levy funds and she scored victories with them, never mind the scale. But the point is, she was a true definition of a public servant, one who worked for the good of the people and one who tried to deliver what the government owed the Filipino people. And most of all she refuted the cliched claim "If you cannot lick them, join them." If a government official like her could live up to such rigorous standards of truth and morality, there should be no reason that the President herself cannot do so, especially if she takes to heart her mandate to serve the needs of the Filipino people before anything - and anybody - else.

I told my mom that we are slowly losing good people to the sickle-bearing goth dude. People like Haydee Yorac cannot fight our battles for us for all eternity. In fact, the reason that people like them only seem to go as far as making a small dent or two in the thick metal encasing the enemy is that we ourselves have consented to thinking that the enemy, no matter how evil it is, is the norm and we just have to go ahead and accept that. That is a dangerous precondition which could twist the societal values which govern our daily lives. Evil is never to be accepted; it is always to be shunned and rejected. It is people like Haydee Yorac who have raised the bar and have tried to present us with a new standard to pursue and live by. Skeptics may ridicule this and say this is a dream, not a sense of reality, rather, an illusion.. But Haydee Yorac was a real person and hers was a real life. Is this then not reality?

Two Deaths and a Resurrection

After more than a week of computer abstinence, the weekend news that my power adapter was finally available for pickup left me, to stick to understatements, extremely delirious. But the excitement of seeing my computer light up with life was dampened by the news that two people I had known at some point had breathed their last: former Senator and presidentiable Raul Roco and my grandfather's best friend.

The computer death story is interesting enough on its own so it should warrant a separate entry. Besides the life and death of machines and people may be disparate but not in all aspects. Machines, for one thing, run on electrical power and as long as there is the presence of such a power source, generally speaking, there should be no problem. The same is true with the human being although the power source in this case is almost equivalent to the human soul. As long as the soul and the body are one, there also should be no problem...generally speaking. Once the soul departs, the body becomes useless except as detritus feeders' fodder. When my laptop adapter died on me, I had to rely on batteries for the next two hours or so but soon when the batteries ran out, pressing the "Power" button did nothing but make the indicator lights blink for about quarter of a second then go out. It was like watching doctors trying to revive a patient using a defibrillator. The jolt given the body is so strong that the entire exercise almost seems violent. Defibrillators are meant to save people from the brink of death and sometimes people get a flicker of hope when they see tiny wave patterns in the heart monitor but when the tiny wave patterns appear for a fraction of a second and disappear into a thin flat line again, nothing more can be done.

I addressed my grandfather's best friend with the same degree of respect I gave my grandfather. Several times, my Lolo recounted to me how Lolo Etic saved him from death, even putting his own life on the line in the process. When Lolo Etic was debilitated by a particularly nasty stroke about five years ago, my grandfather was greatly affected by it. There was always the grim possibility that he would die at any moment. My grandfather's love for his friend was unquestionable and they had gone through so many things in their lives that my entire lifetime could never make me fully comprehend what Lolo Etic meant to my grandfather. During the weekend, he was carried off to Heaven in the hands of Jesus. He died quietly while receiving Holy Communion.

My sister was particularly saddened by Lolo Etic's death because she felt that our grandfather had lost one of the last links to his time. Among his brothers, he is the only one alive. He was also particularly close to his brothers-in-law but only two are living. Most of his contemporaries in the law practice have already passed away. He has a very few bosom friends left. To put it cinematically, my Lolo is the Last of the Mohicans (Daniel Day-Lewis) or The Last Man Standing (Michael Douglas, I think!). My sister thinks that this was a moment in his life that Lolo must have felt alone. Aside from that, it made the reality that Lolo's turn was coming very soon all the more evident.

I do not have a granite heart beating within my rib cage so I naturally understand her sentiments. If my sister chose to look at it from the point of view of solitude, I would rather see it from the perspective of legacy. I am not saying that death is the ultimate bad guy who snatches people's souls like a thief in the night and stuffs them in a roughly-spun, grimy sack, not to mention bearing a heavy-looking sickle at that. But I am absolutely sure that people would want to spend more time on this Earth with family and friends before actually moving on to a higher place. I said to my mother "I'm sure heaven is a great place but people there would not be hypocritical enough to say they would have wanted to spend more time here on Earth despite the fact that we're practically wallowing in misery."

This brings me to Raul Roco. My cousin Barbie texted me last Friday, informing me that Roco, touted as the greatest president the Philippines NEVER had, had succumbed to cancer. I was stunned when I heard the news primarily because I had never heard that his condition had gotten worse after his cancer remission went public during the 2004 election frenzy. He was even one of those who called for PGMA to resign following the "Hello Garci" controversy.

But then Roco was not one who usually tried to draw attention to himself. Perhaps the only thigs conspicuous about Roco would be his brightly-colored flowery shirts. His lineup during the elections consisted of the least popular candidates. He sincerely believed in change and I have always been amazed by his brilliance. I admire his usually calm and composed exterior. Unlike other politicians who resort to shouting, screaming and basking in the brilliance of their bald heads, Roco's speeches were like fire racing across water, clear and mild but equally fiery. The first time he ran for president in 1998, I wanted to vote for him but then I was not yet of the the required age. In 2004, he ran again and when he announced his bid for the highest seat in the land, I made up my mind to vote for him without batting an eyelash.

Meeting Raul Roco in person is a memory I would forever hold dear in my heart. As I read the newspaper articles which announced his death, I could not help but cry as I remembered seeing him in person when he was hot on the campaign trail. I had seen his campaign ads several times but everytime it came out on TV, I'd drop whatever I was holding, watch it and start getting tears in my eyes. I was in the province for vacation with my parents. We were eating an all-seafood lunch in my favorite restaurant when my mom and my dad met a doctor-friend of theirs who turned out to be Roco's campaign manager in our area. He excused himself but came back after a while with Roco himself. He greeted us with a warm smile and there I was staring at him, as if I were a kid seeing Santa Claus, never mind that at that moment he looked jolly, had a rather rounded tummy and wore red. My parents were introduced and he shook my dad's hand and then my mom's. I do not really recall who introduced me to him because my mind and my tongue seemed frozen. It's like meeting someone you've idolized for so long but the major difference in this scenario was that it was totally unexpected. All of my normal body functioning seemed to be focused on only one thing: to gawk at Roco as if I were brain-dead. Even breathing seemed to be forgotten, thank God it's an involuntary action. The next thing I know he turned to me and held out his hand. At that moment, all of my sense came back and I froze for a moment of indecision. Minutes before he sauntered into our table, I was literally diving into my food, having abandoned my eating utensils for a severely sloppy rendition of hand-to-mouth existence. Everything on my plate was practically greasy it could have violated Newton's laws of motion - crabmeat, fish, fried rice, buttered shellfish. So my hand was a sticky mess of the combinations of the food mentioned above. Oh crap, I get a once-in-a-lifetime chance to meet someone I've idolized for so long and all I can offer him is a slimy handshake! I let out the most stupid smile ever and apologized, saying my hand was dirty. But he said something like it was all right and it would be unwise and impolite to refuse so I shook his hand. I was so happy I immediately texted my aunt and my friends. I was just so sad later on that, first, I did not have a picture taken with him and, second, I had to wash my hands a little while later. It is even sadder and more regretful to note that at the last minute I did not write his name in the "President" blank in my ballot because of the news about his ill health.

Roco's death has left another gaping hole in the very small throng of people who compose the guardians of Philippine morality. I have always believed in his integrity and dedication as a public servant, especially in his adherence to the truth. He was an idealistic man and, at times, even ambitious in his efforts to carry out authentic reforms in a society which pessimists proclaim is going to the dogs. I laud his courage for choosing to work for the good of the country even when he is very much aware that in doing so, what he would meet would be disappointment and discouragement in their purest forms. Conrado de Quiros wrote in his column that Roco believed in the Filipino, that there is a lot of good in our race despite all the negative comments slammed into our already mangled faces. He believed in the Filipino's ability to make the right choices, even if money runs our present society like a power generator. All in all, Roco believed in hope for a supposedly doomed country but emphasized what all of us already know but refuse to hear: that true change for society can only be effected when the person himself initiates a change within himself.

Roco deplored about the state of our country but he singled out the fact that young people today lack the proper figures to look up to. Of course, a mango tree cannot bear apples inasmuch as demons cannot bring forth angels. But young people need someone to follow and emulate and since they cannot have the taste of the best, they settle for what's better or good. Bette r and good are all right but they are not the best. In our current circumstances, it is not a remote possibility that we are emulating what's bad (ranting madwomen), worse (organized crime masterminds) or even the worst (plunderers and sons of plunderers with superiority complex and really long nails for more effective tenacious clinging to power). His death leaves a void which would take a long time to be filled and his legacy as a good leader would never be enough to heal society but, to quote Roco's son, the seeds have been spread and, I believe, have taken root. You don't have to be president to do that.

An Innocent (and Not-So Innocent) Venture

Her huge, doe eyes downcast, Chae-Ryn bites her lip and feels her knees tremble both with apprehension and excitement. Paralyzed by fear, she could barely lift her head. As she eyes her feet nervously, she sees another pair of feet slowly come towards her. Young-Sae's. She makes a noiseless groan. Everything is about to start. She practically forces herself to look up just in time to see Young-Sae extend his hand towards her direction. Chae-Ryn swallows hard and everything lands in her stomach like a cannonball - her feelings of panic and dread, memories of her mother and sister, her hope that perhaps tomorrow could be so much better. Furtively, she drags her right foot and makes her first innocent step.

My sister and I got home from church earlier than usual today. She had the beginnings of PMS cramps and could no longer stand to meet with friends for GG meeting. The moment we got home, she threw herself into the bed and curled up into a huge ball of arms, feet and a rather squishy derriere (which she likens to J. Lo's insured rear end). As I was throwing my shirt into the hamper, I remembered that I had just gotten a new Korean movie. I grabbed the black plastic DVD case, stood in front of her with the DVD clutched in my hands like a prized war booty and shouted in my loudest voice ever: "Look!" She sneaked a glance at me and the ball she had rolled herself into almost came untangled in an instant. "Play it now, please!" she begged, her voice throaty perhaps due to the pain from her stomach...or the anticipation from waiting for me to pluck the DVD out of its case and load it into the player. I lay on the bed beside her in a pile of fluffy pillows and watched as the movie credits began to roll: Innocent Steps.

The moment I saw the Innocent Steps DVD on sale, I made a mad dash for it. My sister and I have been itching to see this movie ever since the early part of this year, being extremely fascinated with Korean teen box-office queen Moon Geun-Young. Moon was the one of the reasons I did not completely fast-forward the 2000 drama series Endless Love 1: Autumn in My Heart, the other being heart-slayer Won Bin. I had never seen anyone cry so naturally and effortlessly at that. She became more endearing thanks to the 2003 hit comedy flick My Little Bride with funnyman Kim Rae-Won. Her flair for drama has not dampened her feisty and spirited side, which she showcased with Kim. She has the innate ability to act cute without being extra irritating, it's almost synonymous to eating honey without getting stung by bees. She looks younger than her 19 years but when she steps into her acting shoes, I believe she can be at any age at any time.


Moon with Choi Woo-Hyuk in Endless Love 1: Autumn in My Heart (above)
and Kim Rae-Won in My Little Bride (below)

In Innocent Steps, Moon plays the role of Chinese immigrant Jang Chae-Ryn who was brought to Korea as the new dance partner for leading DanceSports instructor and competitor Na Young-Sae (Park Geun-Hyung). With the competition a few months away, Chae-Ryn undergoes intense training under the careful scrutiny of the perfectionist Young-Sae, especially since Chae-Ryn apparently has an almost zero dance background. Under the tutelage of Young-Sae, she slowly learns every possible technique in ballroom dancing and discovers a huge potential for raising a thunderstorm in the dancefloor which she never thought existed. Though this is predominantly a dance flick, there is the unavoidable presence of certain cliches which are necessary to spice things up a bit - a jealous and scheming rival, some form of comedic sidekick and of course, the two main protagonists falling for each other. Nothing you can avoid especially when Young-sae, in an effort to make Chae-Ryn internalize the intensity of the dance, tells her "You must love me when we are dancing." Just typing that got my eyeballs rolling.


Baby-faced Moon as Jang Chae-Ryn

My sister and I were particularly excited about the dance scenes. Looking at Moon Geun-Young's seemingly innocent face, charming smile and hunched posture, it was very difficult to conjure images of her executing the flashy and swift movements that are characteristic of ballroom dances such as the rhumba, samba and the cha cha, let alone looking like one. From the movie stills, Park Geun-Hyung's almost 10-year seniority was also evident. In fact in the movie, he was accused by a friend of "robbing the cradle big-time." But what is amazing about Moon is that she can become a totally different person once she slips into dancer mode. The cute 19-year old flutters to the ground like a silk robe being shed off. A grown up woman emerges, chin lifted, eyes sparkling with newfound confidence. It's not just the smoky eye make-up or the sequined short costume which suits her perfectly. Even in sweats, a t-shirt and ballet flats, Moon could slip in and out of her dancer mode way faster than my computer could switch users. Moon was exactly like Chae-Ryn, it all just lay inside her quietly but ready to burst out at the intended moment in time and slip back into hibernation when the need was no longer present.


Whipping up a frenzy with Park Geun-Hyung who plays
her mentor and eventual paramour Young-Sae

The movie was not just about the looking the part well. It was also about playing the part and it did so brilliantly. The dancing itself did not disappoint. The first dance scene was devoted to Park and another partner. I remember gawking at Park as he swayed to the music, movements swift and sharp yet tinged with hints of gracefulness, knives cutting through an air of clouds and feathers. Moon herself was a sight to behold as she moved her arms, snapped her neck, flicked her hips, kicked her legs and pirouetted across the floor, all to the precise beat of the music. When she was doing the rhumba with Park, it was torture to take my eyes off the sight of them both in such an atmosphere of magic. In an objective note, Moon's rendition of the samba was not as fetching especially since her hip jerks were barely perceptible, perhaps drowned in the rapid execution of movements in the dance. But nevertheless her samba rendition was, in totality, a very entertaining watch.


Young-Sae initially deplores Chae-Ryn's horrible posture (left) which she eventually corrects (right).

The rest of the movie, like I said, could be pretty much likened to lampreys attached to a shark. There is really nothing new about the love story or the slick acts of envy-driven people, although there were times I felt the plot was careening dangerously into a crevice of cheesiness. However I could pretty much let the rest of it go with their heads intact, except for one: the fireflies. When Chae-Ryn arrives from China, one of the first things she removes from her suitcase would be a bottle containing firefly larvae. She likens the metamorphosis of the firely, and the entire process of lying in wait for the perfect time to emerge from its cocoon, to her own awakening and realizations. As early as that, I was not buying the entire firefly story but towards the end realized their rather awkward purpose as homing beacons. I am sorry but the fireflies worked really well for The Classic, my ultimate favorite Korean film. But for Innocent Steps, I wish they were given a more significant job perhaps as guest performers in a flea circus.

But in the end, the story is not about fireflies, eyebrow-crossing dancesports costumes, extremely conventional villains or the nearing overusage of Ajuhssi (Korean for "Mister") committing serious cradle thieving. It is not labelled a dance film for nothing and in that aspect, the DVD player really should be prepared for more meetings with Innocent Steps.