WARNING: This entry is lengthy. Don't say you were not given prior notice.
My sister and I went grocery shopping after church today. I passed by a shelf full of 1.5 L Coca-cola bottles. I checked the price list which read around 30 pesos. I smiled to myself. Yes, I was back home indeed. The feeling was funny and satisfactory at the same time, not only because I did not have to deal with a trail of zeroes anymore when I want to buy something.
The night before my flight, every bone and nerve in my body was pulsating with excitement. I was up at 5 the next morning morning and out the door before 7 to meet my dad and his co-delegates. By 10, we were off to the airport. It was raining pretty hard on that day but I refused to let my spirits be dampened.
It took us four hours to get to Incheon...five if you count the time difference between the Philippines and Korea. Along the way, our plane would slip in and out of rockstar mode, headbanging sporadically. I did not mind all the jitter, having applied a tummy tightening technique my rollercoaster-freak sister taught me years ago. I just sat on my seat, slipping in and out of sleep, writing on my diary and listening to Cpop songs in the inflight radio. Once I pulled off the headphones and I heard two little girls talking behind me. The conversation was indecipherable but I was able to make out "ajumma" and I smiled to myself. Yes, I was really on my way to Korea.
We arrived in Incheon at about 7:30 in the evening, Korea time. I was practically taken over by excitement the minute I stepped out of the plane. I saw a sign which said "Welcome to Incheon" and half-begged my dad to take my picture with the sign. He adamantly refused probably because he did not want to embarrass himself, having a freaking tourist for a daughter. I was still sulking about the entire thing when I saw something when we were lining up for immigration - a television which broadcasted a series of ads for Samsung. The entire Incheon sign issue dissolved into nothingness as I identified faces one after another on the ads: Kwon Sang-Woo, Moon Geun-Young and Shinhwa's Eric Mun.
The Korean nationals were attended to first in immigration so it was pretty much a long wait. Dad's co-delegates then rushed to the phone rental services desk since GSM phones don't work there. Judging by their sheer number, I saw that this was going to take a while so I had some money exchanged and went phone booth-hunting. My mother's first request (aside from "Be careful!") was that I find a way to call her the minute I get to Korea so that she would at least know we got there in one piece. Thus began my first adventure. I walked over to a convenience store and asked a guy if I could buy a phone card. He spoke English fairly well although his pronunciation was difficult to understand. I decided to buy a phone card and asked him how much one would cost. He replied nonchalantly "10,000 won." I almost dropped my wallet. I was not used to the entire idea of purchasing small things like a phone card or a stick of gum by the thousands. Turns out, the card would cost almost 600 in pesos.
I walked over to a cluster of phone booths and saw one which looked like a hybrid of a computer and a phone. I eyed the mutated machine warily seeing it had a phone for a lop-sided ear, a computer monitor and a keyboard. I decided to stick to the traditional phone. I saw a normal-looking one and lifted the handset. A recorded voice said to me "Please select coin or card." I moved my eyes to the buttons and froze. The buttons, except the numbers, were all in Hangul! I frantically tried pushing any button I could get my fingers on but did not manage to get my phone card to work. I eyed the mutated phone standing behind me. I should be the last one to be frightened by things like that. I scanned the phone, looking for a mouse of some sort but could find none. I leaned my hand against the monitor as I did this, an act which saved me from further frustration. The monitor was a touch screen. I managed to contact my mother through a phone operator who, I could swear, hated me because she could not spell or pronounce my lengthy surname correctly. When I hung up after talking to mom, I espied instructions in English plastered on the other side of the phone booth. Sobriety always works.
We finally managed to get out of the airport at around 9 pm. The drive to Gangnam, Seoul took about an hour. After dinner, I faced the mirror in the bathroom of our hotel room and saw that my eyes had gone red and puffy, having worn my contact lenses straight for more than 18 hours. Our call time the next day was at 6:30 pm but I could barely fall asleep. I wanted to run out the door and see where the streets below would lead.
Basically my five days in Korea were nothing short of amazing. Like my friend told me, time is precious when you are there. I could rant on and on about the things which I enjoyed the most and if I were to do it chronologically, I could end up sounding like Antonio Pigafetta, Ferdinand Magellan's chronicler. But the best thing about my trip is that I got more than what I bargained for.
* Stationary fireflies.
One of the first things I noticed while cruising the freeway from Incheon to Seoul were the lights. There were so many streetlights which illuminated freeways, bridges and and highways in Seoul, I began to wonder how much the the government allots for electricity alone! They looked like stationary fireflies which dotted the skyline.
As we crossed the river Han, I noticed that there were several bridges. Each bridge was different from another both in structure, design and color, thanks to the lights. The bridges came in all sorts of colors such as green, yellow, blue and even pink and purple.
* A different kind of shopping.
Before I left, Mich had warned me that shopping in Korea was a bit heavy on the wallet. My initial experience with the thousands had left me alarmed and queasy. But aside from the fact that in Korea, hundreds meant loose change, I was given a new experience in shopping.
One of the first places we went to was Dongdaemun, the fashion capital of Seoul. A friend who had gone there before already told me about that place but I had not readied myself yet. One side of the street is populated by three big malls namely Doota, Migliore and Freya Town. Unlike malls in the Philippines which are short yet wide, the malls in Dongdaemun race towards the sky. If I remember right, Doota is around 10 floors. The other two are more or less the same. The area per floor is rather big too and each floor is devoted to one kind of merchandise like shoes, ladies' apparel, souvenirs and the like. On the other side of the street is a flea market where they sell antiques, pottery, bronze Buddhas and Andy Lau DVDs.
Namdaemun was the fashion capital before Dongdaemun. The streets are full of stores selling clothes, cosmetics, shoes, bags and DVDs. The streets themselves are crowded with tarpaulin-covered wagons which are overflowing with socks, scrunchies, hair clips, wallets, movie star memorabilia like calendars, mugs and pins.
We stayed in a hotel near COEX in Gangnam. Under COEX is a sprawling mall which houses so many stores. The prices are pretty expensive in COEX Mall but the items sold are pretty interesting to look at.
Another interesting shopping spot was Insadong. If Harry Potter had Diagon Alley, Seoul would have Insadong. The place was just teeming with people. Insadong gave life to the word "window shopping." The items sold there were diverse from chopsticks to cellphone charms, hanboks to wallets with Won Bin's face on them, chandelier earrings to mini Nanta drums. I was so amused by what I saw I totally forgot to take out my wallet. There were also street performers, people who sold street food while doing tricks and shop owners who would walk their dogs and allow people to pet them. One shop owner brought her white Chow-chow and black dachshund and they did not even try to bite when I petted them. The air in Insadong was thick with the scent of perfume, the whiff of something being barbecued, the musty smell of old books and of course, the voices of the people. In the afternoon, a dramatization and parade featuring Korea's ancient police were staged in the end of Insadong.
Sinchon is Seoul's equivalent to Manila's U-belt area. The prices are pegged at student rates and the clothes there are more colorful and lean towards the outrageous. I did not buy a single shirt there even if I really wanted to because there was just too many of them, choosing was already excruciating. The only thing I bought from Sinchon was a beautiful antique treasure box made purely out of wood. It reminded me of the box in The Classic which held the letters Cho Seung-Woo wrote Son Ye-Jin. Now that box contains the little souvenirs I bought in Korea.
Dongdaemun, Insadong (top, left to right) and Sinchon (bottom)Technomart is an electronics market located near the train station in Gangbyeon. If I were to buy a new cellphone or a rice cooker, I would not go there. There were a total of 10 floors, each one housing a specific type of gadget, appliance or piece of equipment like TVs, DVD players, computers and peripherals, digital music players, calculators and component systems. Like Sinchon, choosing alone is stressful!
* Going a little outrageous (just a little).
In the Philippines, I try as much as possible to look like the person sitting next to me. Wearing something out of the ordinary is synonymous to standing out. Standing out is no good at all, especally if you don't want a knife poking you from behind.
In Korea, looking ordinary is synonymous to standing out. I got the chance to draw out a bit of my hidden kakikayan and eccentricity by wearing my layered shirts with frayed ends as well as long earrings and hoops I bought from a store in Divisoria. As if that were not enough, I had a section of my hair tied with colorful yarn! Dad shook his head in disbelief when he saw me. His friends took turns in calling me Dinky Soliman, which I seriously detested.
The day after, as a manifestation of my unfamiliarity with vanity, I took a bath, and completely forgetting about the yarn in my head, drew a comb down my messy hair. I touched something thick, remembered the little braid in my head and stared in horror as a small clump of hair got disengaged from the bound strip of yarn.
* The real meaning of safe.
On our first day, our tour guide told us that Seoul is one of the safest cities in the world. Naturally I did not believe him.
In my first night in Seoul, I was shocked to see people in the streets at around 11 in the evening with their cellphones, MP3 players and digital cameras out in the open. They were not even making an effort to hide these things. They were making and receiving calls in the middle of the street!
Every night, I would go out and sit on a bench near our hotel before I go to sleep. I noticed how people walked in the Gangnam area. They indeed did not seem as if they were trying to avoid somebody or something. Their pace was slow and leisurely, as if it were broad daylight!
In the Philippines, I have grown accustomed to seeing men in drinking sprees in the nearby tiangge or carinderia and avoid them like the plague. By the time they have had too much of their fill, they start getting rowdy and noisy and it is not uncommon to hear of drunkards getting embroiled in fistfights and slashing, usually provoked by an awfully ear-shattering rendition of Frank Sinatra's "My Way." In Korea, people simply slither into unconsciousness. In Insadong, I espied someone who had a little too much to drink. He had passed out and had been reduced to a still form, slumped near a lamp post. Not only did he simply stay silent and not torment the people in the streets like an Australopithecus, no one tried to mug him or steal his wallet and wristwatch!
* The Korean people.
The Koreans themselves are very nice, well-disciplined and extremely helpful. I have a Korean friend who I met for the first time when I went to Seoul. She was just simply wonderful and did so many things to make my stay completely memorable, one of which is detailed a little later.
I got to know the Korean girl who did my hair braid. She was just two years older than me and our hair braiding session became interesting because we started talking about a lot of things.
I met a lot of store clerks and salespeople there. In COEX, I was desperately looking for a DVD of MISA. The salesboy tried his best to help me even if he could barely speak English.
But I think the most memorable would be an encounter with a fortyish man somewhere near the National University of Education. I had just gotten off the train to meet my friend and I was trying to find a payphone so I could call her. I could not find one so I asked the help of a man who was working in a bank. He had gone out for a smoke and was about to go inside when I approached him. I asked him where I could find a payphone. I was floored by what he did next. He took out his phone and gave it to me, saying I could make a phone call for free!
* Five thousand years of history and richness of culture.
Korea's history is very colorful. Their museums, especially the National Folk Museum, manifest the pride that they have for their history. Their folk villages and the Gyeongbukgung palace are beautiful architectural structures that merely standing inside them seems to invoke images of time travel already. Koreans are also extremely proud of the Hangul, their writing system, which can express any sound.
Gyeongbukgung (left) and Namsangol Korean Folk Village (right)There is a delicate blend between myth and fact. Similar to the Japanese who trace their ancestry to the sun goddess Amaterasu, the Koreans believe their ancestor was a she-bear who became a beautiful woman after passing a test given by a son of Heaven. Near the President's residence called the Blue House (which actually has a green roof) is a monument which has a sculpture of a bird in the middle of it. Apparently, that bird will appear in the event that North Korea and South Korea do reunify.
Of course culture needs appreciation. The good thing about Korea is that the people themselves appreciate their culture and try their best to preserve it. Their museums are well-maintained not only because they draw tourists like a magnet but because they stand as a testament to their country's proud history.
* Of aircon and air pollution.
In Korea, aircon is hated with such ferocity! My dad and his co-delegates were appalled as to why the room temperature could not be adjusted. Apparently the government has issued a law prohibiting hotels from turning on their airconditioners at night. Guests could choose to open their windows. After all, air pollution is unheard of in Korea. For a country with a population of 13 million, you would think their air was thick with smog. The air in Korea is crisp and reminds me of mint and eucalyptus. The entire time I was there, I never saw a single car leave a trail of smoke as it sped down the road.
* Underground, underwater.
I have always known water was my element and I was not surprise when a friend of mine confirmed it for me. When I found out COEX Mall had an aquarium, I immedately resolved to go inside.
COEX Mall is itself underground already. It seemed rather tricky to have an underground water wonderland but COEX Mall sure pulled it off. The scene stealer was naturally the underwater tunnel where I could see all sorts of marine life swim past me, beside me and above me - sharks, sea turtles and even the rare sawfish! I actually saw a sawfish! The aquarium also housed piranhas, smiling manta rays, electric eels. But my favorite had to be the monitor lizard which seemed to detest the attention and a humongous crocodile who obviously wanted me for dinner as it snapped it jaws at the sight of me.
* A musical extravaganza.
As a college sophomore, my Asian Art teacher showed us a video of a performance featuring Korean drums. I remember that the performance was so amazing it had captured my undivided attention. After the video presentation, my teacher showed us slides of the different kinds of drums used and the names of the drums were similar to the sounds they produced.
In Seoul, we had the opportunity of actually seeing a Nanta performance. I could think of no better adjective to describe it except "captivating." There were about four drums, including a little metal one which made a high-pitched sound. Not only did the booms and bangs contribute to a frenzied atmosphere. The drummers themselves seemed possessed by the music. With their eyes closed, they would move their heads swiftly from side to side as they hit the drums. During the entire performance, I believe I did not move a single muscle.
Later on, one of them wore a hat with something like a white strand of thick string attached to the top of the hat. Then while playing the drum, he would move his head around, making the white strand revolve from side to side or around him. It was simply amazing and an act like that would certainly require perfect coordination!
* Being a kid again.
Dad played hooky from his conference and accompanied me to go to Lotte World Adventure Park and Magic Island. There, I became a little girl again. It has been so long since I relished riding a carousel and I did just that! I also got on my favorite ride, Lotte World's equivalent of EK's Flying Fiesta! I also got a little more risky by taking the Flume Ride, synonymous to EK's Jungle Log Jam and Star City's Wild River. My knees got all wobbly the minute I stepped out of the boat. Then I realized I was not THAT plucky to try the Gyro Drop and their rollercoaster whose whooshing sounds drowned out the screams of the passengers.
* A train by any other name...and a cruise too.
Seoul boasts of one of the most efficient railway systems in the world. I was itching to try their subway, composed of nine lines which are somehow interconnected with each other. The fare would be around 900 won per person (about 60 pesos) but it was so fast, it was a much better option than a taxi which has a flag down rate of 80-90 pesos. I was at first apprehensive to try the subway because a friend warned me that the exits could be confusing if you did not know where to head. But thanks to my trusty map, I did not get lost at all!
And just to digress, Seoul is a pretty big place. I could not figure out how in those TV dramas, the characters always end up meeting in some place. But heck yah! IT'S A TV DRAMA!
On our last night, we took a cruise along the river Han. The night time view of Seoul was simply amazing and breathtaking. I spent the entire time out on the deck, taking pictures.
It seems like the cruise is a good idea for a date as many couples were also out on the deck. The cruise lasted for about an hour and the entire time, a local folk singer serenaded the passengers and played his guitar.
* Gastronomical delight.
My lack of adventure in carnival rides I make up for through serious food tripping. In Korea, I had a taste of their famous bulgogi and chicken soup with ginseng. Chicken soup with ginseng was our first lunch in Seoul. I was particularly excited since I could use the metal chopsticks for the first time (which, I believe, are easier to use than wood or plastic). Also I had always been fascinated by their rice, which seems glutinous. The entire exercise of partaking the lunch was a full-scale battle. The soup was so hot, blowing it was not enough. It was also quite a challenge eating half a chicken with chopsticks, not to mention getting the entire thing into your stomach. The restaurant owner took pity on us and gave us forks eventually. However what was interesting was that while I tussled with my dead piece of poultry, I realized that the glutinous rice was buried deep inside the chicken! Then as I probed deeper, the strip of ginseng floated like a miniature piece of yellow log.
Bulgogi was so much more fun to eat. Marinated meat is barbecued right in front of you. It is so hot the entire meal doubles as steaming your face. Then the chunk of still steaming meat is placed in a piece of lettuce along with strips of random vegetables and some chili-like ingredient which I do not recognize at all. The trickier parts come next. The lettuce is then rolled and folded to encase the meat, vegetables and the sauce in a square lumpia. I find it easier to turn my lettuce into a paperbag. To eat, you push the entire blob into your mouth, no biting off allowed, then add a spoonful of rice. Goodah!
I also discovered a nice snack in Korea. One of dad's companions bought silkworm for 1000 won. I did not say this aloud but the deep-fried silkworm looked like mini cockroaches with their leg-like protrusions curled inwards.
I stood in front of the cup with dad and his co-delegates and took one out using a toothpick. Muttering a silent "Here goes," I plopped it into my mouth and began to chew. The stuff was crispy and delicious! The taste was somewhere between dilis and chicharon. However I bet it would taste even better with suka.
* Getting through the language obstacle.
Most of the people I met in Korea did not speak English very well. They could understand what I was saying but it would be clearer for them if I added hand gestures. For instance in a restaurant, I was asking for directions to get to the washroom. She indicated that I go straight then right but spoke to me in Korean. In the train, an old lady tried asking me for directions but I apologized, saying I only spoke English.
In Doota, I was looking for souvenirs and the guy behind the counter was very helpful, speaking to me in halting English. I remember he started to look embarrassed and all of a sudden said in an amused tone, "I'm sorry, this is the only expression I know...ni hao ma?" I laughed and shook my head, saying I did not speak Mandarin. Apparently, he thought I was Chinese or Malaysian...he was not the last one.
* The DVD hunt.
One definite thing I wanted to buy in Korea was DVDs. It is very difficult to get LEGAL(!) copies of Korean movies and series in the Philippines, especially those which were were not aired by a local network. I have been itching to watch Marathon, a critically acclaimed film which stars another favorite actor, thespian Cho Seung-Woo. No copies have been available locally and I found a copy in Korea. I also bought a copy of The Classic!
But the DVD I really scoured Seoul to find was Mi Ahn Ha Da, Sarang Han Da (MISA). It was particularly difficult to find since most stores are out of stock. In COEX, I could not find it anywhere. In DVD shops in Dongdaemun and Namdaemun, it was not available too. The clerk in COEX even told me that I was not the only one desperately searching for a copy.
My friend suggested that I check out Technomart if there was an available copy. After shuffling between the 3rd, 4th and 6th floors, I finally found the DVD kiosks at the 8th floor. All but one had run out of stocks for MISA and in that one kiosk, it was the only copy left. Yes, that copy was truly meant for me!
* One race, two flags.
On our last day, we were able to take a trip to the Demilitarized Zone in Paju City. Video and photography were forbidden, except in places designated by the military. We were given the opportunity to go inside one of three infilatration tunnels built by North Korean forces in an attempt to penetrate the South. The part of the tunnel open to the public was about 350 meters long which was inclined at an angle of 0.3 degrees. It was very cold inside and as I walked, I began to envision myself as Jang Dong Gun or Won Bin in Taegukgi. If going down the tunnel was a challenge, going back up was agonizing. The entire walk was so long and tiresome, it is not recommended for people with claustrophobia and heart disease. The tunnel was built with a direction towards Seoul but was not finished because the Southern forces discovered this. When questioned, the North coated the walls with coal and explained that the tunnel was a coal mine.
An observatory shows the DMZ thick with foliage that the barbed wire fence which serves to separate North and South Korea is no longer visible. A small lake serves as a point of reference for determining which is North and which is South, along with two flags fluttering in the wind which face each other silently in a stand-off which has lasted more than half a century. No man has stepped on that area for that period of time. The absence of man and the disturbance hw brings has allowed a unique ecosystem to emerge in the DMZ, with a diversity of plant and animal species using that area as habitat. It is like nature is telling both Koreas to erase the animosity between them and live together in harmony. Sometimes, the lessons men need can be learned from animals.
For 500 won, you can rent a telescope which allows you to view the city of Kaesong in North Korea, the second largest city after Pyeongyang. Through the telescope, I saw the stark difference between Kaesong and Seoul. Seoul was progressive whereas Kaesong was more rural in appearance. Once again, the irony struck me. The North upholds the principles of communism, of equally dividing the resources for everybody. The South was more capitalistic and believed in fostering competition. But the South was roaring with progress whereas the North was sinking into a lull.
Our tour guide told us a story of an old man who used to sit on that observatory everyday. A soldier asked him what he was looking at. He responded that he left a wife and a 2-year old son in the North just before the war broke out. He bade them farewell in the morning because he had to work on a project in the South. He never got go back ever again and all his life, he has been tormented with thought of his wife and son, not knowing if they are alive or dead and what has become of them both.
There is a train station in Paju called Dorasan. By the looks of it, one would think the station is in use. There is a waiting area with blue chairs. A guard stands by the door and visitors can get their passports stamped. But what is most heart-wrenching is the sign at the entrance which, I suppose, leads to the train. The sign says "Pyeongyang." In the event that the two Koreas do unify, that guard will move aside and allow people to pass, taking the passengers to Pyeongyang, past the years of animosity and hatred. But as of now, the soldier remains at his post and the station's train and railway remain unused, silently waiting for the day the mythical bird appears.
And of course, like I said, my list of things to do became a list of things I have done.
* Eat kimchi.
As expected, the kimchi I tasted in Korea was extremely delicious. The blend of flavors was just right, it was lip-smacking. However I could not bring myself to eat kimchi in the morning as part of breakfast. That was the only time of day I did not have it in front of me.
However not all kimchi are made the same. The best was the one served to us in the chicken soup and ginseng restaurant. I was served kimchi alongside a curry-and-rice lunch in a COEX foodcourt but that one overdid the chili. It was too spicy it overpowered the other flavors.
* Get the 411 on tea drinking.
I did not get to attend a tea ceremony of sorts but in every meal, we were served a cup of tea. Tea was an essential part of every meal and was believed to aid digestion.
* Drink soju in a tent bar.
I did not get to drink soju but I did get to try something stronger: ginseng wine. In the chicken soup and ginseng restaurant, the meal was to be washed down by a shot of ginseng wine. I cautiously eyed the small ceramic cup filled with the clear, deceptive liquid up to the brim. I watched my dad take a sip and saw his face reduce itself into a series of tiny furrows. I took the cup and took the tiniest sip. It was like taking a swig at a bottle of rubbing alcohol. My eyes immedately began to water. Dad's co-delegates laughed at me, saying I need not worry since they could take turns giving me a piggy-back ride to the hotel.
* Watch a movie in a cineplex...WITHOUT SUBTITLES.
In COEX, I spent two hours inside a movie house. The minute I found out that The Duelist was still being shown, I decided against seeing April Snow and another movie which featured Kim Jung Eun in a May-December romance with a 17-year old teenager. I had a hankering for some action and besides, I figured The Duelist was a movie I could get through without being dependent on subtitles.
It was actually a generally entertaining movie, though I wish I could at least understand what was going on in terms of the conversations. However I did not need subtitles to deduce that Kang Dong-Won and Ha Ji-Won had a thing for each other even if one was a policewoman and the other was an assassin/swordsman.
Ha's ability to contort her pretty face elicited laugher from me, along with the other people inside the moviehouse. I was fascinated wth Kang's all black getup and pale skin which made him look sullen yet extremely mysterious. Yet the runaway hit was his nicely layered straight hair which, I believe, was the key to his appeal. But I especially liked the swordfight scenes between Kang and Ha. The skill was inferior to the ones displayed in movies like Hero, but I loved the interplay between dark shadows and gleaming lights which made the film an overall visual delight.
* Visit a Buddhist temple or shrine.
Behind COEX was Bonggeunsa, one of the more popular temples in Seoul. It was indeed a retreat from the hustle and bustle of busy Gangnam. The place was quiet and solemn, full of devotees and worshippers. I just walked around, taking pictures here and there and I was wary of taking videos since I might offend some people.
* Have a picture taken wearing a hanbok.
This was one I was so desperate to do. We were practically running around the National Folk Museum I was unable to rent a hanbok and have a picture taken while I was wearing it. So I made up my mind to go to Lotte World where a friend of mine told me you could do that too.
I was greeted by a deluge of hanboks in all sorts of colors and designs. The lady gave me a dark green hanbok which, she said, was the costume of a queen during the old days. I did not choose that since that was the one my friend wore when she went there. I liked a navy blue hanbok with gold embroidery but I was worried it might look dull in the photographs. So I settled for a fuchsia pink and dark blue hanbok.
The lady helped me wear it and she added a hat on my head to complete the entire look. On hindsight, I should have worn something more vibrant like the red one with striped sleeves.
Walking around in a hanbok needs some getting used to. While I was looking for a nice photo spot while wearing the hanbok, I ran into a group of Koreans who were around my age. They looked like they were suppressing their laughter so I turned around and ran back to the lady with the hanboks. I ended up tripping on the dress four times. Thank God I did not rip the dress. Hmmm...I should practice with a blanket at home.
* Keep eyes peeled for movie stars.
Our tour guide said that Gangnam was a good place to spot movie stars. However I only knew the top-notch stars in Korea so the possibility of seeing Won Bin in the middle of the street would be close to impossible. My lack of visual tinseltown luster was made up for by the billboards and posters I saw there: Jang Dong-Gun for Anycall, Song Hye-Kyo, Kwon Sang-Woo and Bi for skin products, Kim Tae Hee for Samsung, Jung Woo-Sung for Giordano, Moon Geun-Young for pizza, Cho Seung-Woo and Kang Dong-Won for clothing...the list just goes on and on.
Star spotting, billboard style: Lee Dong-Gun for a mobile phone, "Sassy Girl" Jeon Ji-Hyun for
Olympus, Ha Ji-Won and Jo In-Sung for a hair salon and Kim Rae-Won and Im Soo-Jung
for the clothing company Clr!de.As if that were not enough, I wanted to just drop by the district office in Mapo where Ji Sup was doing his military service. I did not have any plans of going inside and plead with him to give me an autograph. I just wanted to stay outside and pretend I was there for some other reason except to try and see how he looks like in person. But I never had the time because we were following a strict schedule with the tour guide. When we went to the World Cup Stadium, I saw signs which gave directions to "Mapo District Office" and I could do nothing more than sigh. We then dropped by the Amethyst Factory and I was sinking into semi-depression when my dad pointed something at me. I was actually in front of the road on which the district office located! I just stood there, staring at the road and taking a video of it, bewailing the best illustration by far of the cliche "so near, yet so far."
* Go to places where some movies or series have been shot.
For my sister, this was the highlight of my trip. In Lotte World, the carousel I rode on was the one used for Stairway to Heaven. Shots of Choi Ji-Woo and Kwon Sang-Woo were also taken in the skating rink of Lotte World.
I got to meet my friend in Korea who took me to some places where So Ji Sup shot some of his series such as What Happened in Bali and of course, MISA. A bulk of MISA scenes were shot in Gangnam and I was telling my dad "Is that fate or what?" We went to the Ritz where some shots of Bali were taken and also Kang In Wook's house. The house was on top of a steep hill that my tongue was hanging out by the time I reached the top. The people who lived there were so nice to let us in and allowed us to take a look at the house.
I got to be Eun-chae for a day when we visited the house of Moo-hyuk's sister in MISA. I am not sure where that was but the people (an old couple) who owned the house were nice enough to let us in. I gave them a box of detergent as a thank you present. My friend made me sit by the post where Moo-hyuk asked Eun-chae not to go as well as by the stone steps leading to the house where Eun-chae waited for Moo-hyuk to come home in the last few episodes.
We also dropped by St. Mary's, a Catholic hospital where a bulk of MISA scenes were shot, including the basketball game between Yoon and Moo-hyuk as well as Yoon's house which was located in Gangnam. And I could never forget that crossroad in Gangnam were Moo-hyuk ran into Eun-chae in the middle of the street and wrapped her with his coat because it was cold.
Scenes from MISA (top to bottom): In the pedestrian lane where Moo-hyuk came upon a drunk
Eun-chae; Yoon's house; the overpass where Moo-hyuk received a call from Eun-chae.
My sister and I went grocery shopping after church today. I passed by a shelf full of 1.5 L Coca-cola bottles. I checked the price list which read around 30 pesos. I smiled to myself. Yes, I was back home indeed. The feeling was funny and satisfactory at the same time, not only because I did not have to deal with a trail of zeroes anymore when I want to buy something.
The night before my flight, every bone and nerve in my body was pulsating with excitement. I was up at 5 the next morning morning and out the door before 7 to meet my dad and his co-delegates. By 10, we were off to the airport. It was raining pretty hard on that day but I refused to let my spirits be dampened.
It took us four hours to get to Incheon...five if you count the time difference between the Philippines and Korea. Along the way, our plane would slip in and out of rockstar mode, headbanging sporadically. I did not mind all the jitter, having applied a tummy tightening technique my rollercoaster-freak sister taught me years ago. I just sat on my seat, slipping in and out of sleep, writing on my diary and listening to Cpop songs in the inflight radio. Once I pulled off the headphones and I heard two little girls talking behind me. The conversation was indecipherable but I was able to make out "ajumma" and I smiled to myself. Yes, I was really on my way to Korea.
We arrived in Incheon at about 7:30 in the evening, Korea time. I was practically taken over by excitement the minute I stepped out of the plane. I saw a sign which said "Welcome to Incheon" and half-begged my dad to take my picture with the sign. He adamantly refused probably because he did not want to embarrass himself, having a freaking tourist for a daughter. I was still sulking about the entire thing when I saw something when we were lining up for immigration - a television which broadcasted a series of ads for Samsung. The entire Incheon sign issue dissolved into nothingness as I identified faces one after another on the ads: Kwon Sang-Woo, Moon Geun-Young and Shinhwa's Eric Mun.
The Korean nationals were attended to first in immigration so it was pretty much a long wait. Dad's co-delegates then rushed to the phone rental services desk since GSM phones don't work there. Judging by their sheer number, I saw that this was going to take a while so I had some money exchanged and went phone booth-hunting. My mother's first request (aside from "Be careful!") was that I find a way to call her the minute I get to Korea so that she would at least know we got there in one piece. Thus began my first adventure. I walked over to a convenience store and asked a guy if I could buy a phone card. He spoke English fairly well although his pronunciation was difficult to understand. I decided to buy a phone card and asked him how much one would cost. He replied nonchalantly "10,000 won." I almost dropped my wallet. I was not used to the entire idea of purchasing small things like a phone card or a stick of gum by the thousands. Turns out, the card would cost almost 600 in pesos.
I walked over to a cluster of phone booths and saw one which looked like a hybrid of a computer and a phone. I eyed the mutated machine warily seeing it had a phone for a lop-sided ear, a computer monitor and a keyboard. I decided to stick to the traditional phone. I saw a normal-looking one and lifted the handset. A recorded voice said to me "Please select coin or card." I moved my eyes to the buttons and froze. The buttons, except the numbers, were all in Hangul! I frantically tried pushing any button I could get my fingers on but did not manage to get my phone card to work. I eyed the mutated phone standing behind me. I should be the last one to be frightened by things like that. I scanned the phone, looking for a mouse of some sort but could find none. I leaned my hand against the monitor as I did this, an act which saved me from further frustration. The monitor was a touch screen. I managed to contact my mother through a phone operator who, I could swear, hated me because she could not spell or pronounce my lengthy surname correctly. When I hung up after talking to mom, I espied instructions in English plastered on the other side of the phone booth. Sobriety always works.
We finally managed to get out of the airport at around 9 pm. The drive to Gangnam, Seoul took about an hour. After dinner, I faced the mirror in the bathroom of our hotel room and saw that my eyes had gone red and puffy, having worn my contact lenses straight for more than 18 hours. Our call time the next day was at 6:30 pm but I could barely fall asleep. I wanted to run out the door and see where the streets below would lead.
Basically my five days in Korea were nothing short of amazing. Like my friend told me, time is precious when you are there. I could rant on and on about the things which I enjoyed the most and if I were to do it chronologically, I could end up sounding like Antonio Pigafetta, Ferdinand Magellan's chronicler. But the best thing about my trip is that I got more than what I bargained for.
* Stationary fireflies.
One of the first things I noticed while cruising the freeway from Incheon to Seoul were the lights. There were so many streetlights which illuminated freeways, bridges and and highways in Seoul, I began to wonder how much the the government allots for electricity alone! They looked like stationary fireflies which dotted the skyline.
As we crossed the river Han, I noticed that there were several bridges. Each bridge was different from another both in structure, design and color, thanks to the lights. The bridges came in all sorts of colors such as green, yellow, blue and even pink and purple.
* A different kind of shopping.
Before I left, Mich had warned me that shopping in Korea was a bit heavy on the wallet. My initial experience with the thousands had left me alarmed and queasy. But aside from the fact that in Korea, hundreds meant loose change, I was given a new experience in shopping.
One of the first places we went to was Dongdaemun, the fashion capital of Seoul. A friend who had gone there before already told me about that place but I had not readied myself yet. One side of the street is populated by three big malls namely Doota, Migliore and Freya Town. Unlike malls in the Philippines which are short yet wide, the malls in Dongdaemun race towards the sky. If I remember right, Doota is around 10 floors. The other two are more or less the same. The area per floor is rather big too and each floor is devoted to one kind of merchandise like shoes, ladies' apparel, souvenirs and the like. On the other side of the street is a flea market where they sell antiques, pottery, bronze Buddhas and Andy Lau DVDs.
Namdaemun was the fashion capital before Dongdaemun. The streets are full of stores selling clothes, cosmetics, shoes, bags and DVDs. The streets themselves are crowded with tarpaulin-covered wagons which are overflowing with socks, scrunchies, hair clips, wallets, movie star memorabilia like calendars, mugs and pins.
We stayed in a hotel near COEX in Gangnam. Under COEX is a sprawling mall which houses so many stores. The prices are pretty expensive in COEX Mall but the items sold are pretty interesting to look at.
Another interesting shopping spot was Insadong. If Harry Potter had Diagon Alley, Seoul would have Insadong. The place was just teeming with people. Insadong gave life to the word "window shopping." The items sold there were diverse from chopsticks to cellphone charms, hanboks to wallets with Won Bin's face on them, chandelier earrings to mini Nanta drums. I was so amused by what I saw I totally forgot to take out my wallet. There were also street performers, people who sold street food while doing tricks and shop owners who would walk their dogs and allow people to pet them. One shop owner brought her white Chow-chow and black dachshund and they did not even try to bite when I petted them. The air in Insadong was thick with the scent of perfume, the whiff of something being barbecued, the musty smell of old books and of course, the voices of the people. In the afternoon, a dramatization and parade featuring Korea's ancient police were staged in the end of Insadong.
Sinchon is Seoul's equivalent to Manila's U-belt area. The prices are pegged at student rates and the clothes there are more colorful and lean towards the outrageous. I did not buy a single shirt there even if I really wanted to because there was just too many of them, choosing was already excruciating. The only thing I bought from Sinchon was a beautiful antique treasure box made purely out of wood. It reminded me of the box in The Classic which held the letters Cho Seung-Woo wrote Son Ye-Jin. Now that box contains the little souvenirs I bought in Korea.
Dongdaemun, Insadong (top, left to right) and Sinchon (bottom)
* Going a little outrageous (just a little).
In the Philippines, I try as much as possible to look like the person sitting next to me. Wearing something out of the ordinary is synonymous to standing out. Standing out is no good at all, especally if you don't want a knife poking you from behind.
In Korea, looking ordinary is synonymous to standing out. I got the chance to draw out a bit of my hidden kakikayan and eccentricity by wearing my layered shirts with frayed ends as well as long earrings and hoops I bought from a store in Divisoria. As if that were not enough, I had a section of my hair tied with colorful yarn! Dad shook his head in disbelief when he saw me. His friends took turns in calling me Dinky Soliman, which I seriously detested.
* The real meaning of safe.
On our first day, our tour guide told us that Seoul is one of the safest cities in the world. Naturally I did not believe him.
In my first night in Seoul, I was shocked to see people in the streets at around 11 in the evening with their cellphones, MP3 players and digital cameras out in the open. They were not even making an effort to hide these things. They were making and receiving calls in the middle of the street!
Every night, I would go out and sit on a bench near our hotel before I go to sleep. I noticed how people walked in the Gangnam area. They indeed did not seem as if they were trying to avoid somebody or something. Their pace was slow and leisurely, as if it were broad daylight!
In the Philippines, I have grown accustomed to seeing men in drinking sprees in the nearby tiangge or carinderia and avoid them like the plague. By the time they have had too much of their fill, they start getting rowdy and noisy and it is not uncommon to hear of drunkards getting embroiled in fistfights and slashing, usually provoked by an awfully ear-shattering rendition of Frank Sinatra's "My Way." In Korea, people simply slither into unconsciousness. In Insadong, I espied someone who had a little too much to drink. He had passed out and had been reduced to a still form, slumped near a lamp post. Not only did he simply stay silent and not torment the people in the streets like an Australopithecus, no one tried to mug him or steal his wallet and wristwatch!
The Koreans themselves are very nice, well-disciplined and extremely helpful. I have a Korean friend who I met for the first time when I went to Seoul. She was just simply wonderful and did so many things to make my stay completely memorable, one of which is detailed a little later.
I got to know the Korean girl who did my hair braid. She was just two years older than me and our hair braiding session became interesting because we started talking about a lot of things.
I met a lot of store clerks and salespeople there. In COEX, I was desperately looking for a DVD of MISA. The salesboy tried his best to help me even if he could barely speak English.
But I think the most memorable would be an encounter with a fortyish man somewhere near the National University of Education. I had just gotten off the train to meet my friend and I was trying to find a payphone so I could call her. I could not find one so I asked the help of a man who was working in a bank. He had gone out for a smoke and was about to go inside when I approached him. I asked him where I could find a payphone. I was floored by what he did next. He took out his phone and gave it to me, saying I could make a phone call for free!
* Five thousand years of history and richness of culture.
Korea's history is very colorful. Their museums, especially the National Folk Museum, manifest the pride that they have for their history. Their folk villages and the Gyeongbukgung palace are beautiful architectural structures that merely standing inside them seems to invoke images of time travel already. Koreans are also extremely proud of the Hangul, their writing system, which can express any sound.
Gyeongbukgung (left) and Namsangol Korean Folk Village (right)
* Of aircon and air pollution.
In Korea, aircon is hated with such ferocity! My dad and his co-delegates were appalled as to why the room temperature could not be adjusted. Apparently the government has issued a law prohibiting hotels from turning on their airconditioners at night. Guests could choose to open their windows. After all, air pollution is unheard of in Korea. For a country with a population of 13 million, you would think their air was thick with smog. The air in Korea is crisp and reminds me of mint and eucalyptus. The entire time I was there, I never saw a single car leave a trail of smoke as it sped down the road.
* Underground, underwater.
I have always known water was my element and I was not surprise when a friend of mine confirmed it for me. When I found out COEX Mall had an aquarium, I immedately resolved to go inside.
COEX Mall is itself underground already. It seemed rather tricky to have an underground water wonderland but COEX Mall sure pulled it off. The scene stealer was naturally the underwater tunnel where I could see all sorts of marine life swim past me, beside me and above me - sharks, sea turtles and even the rare sawfish! I actually saw a sawfish! The aquarium also housed piranhas, smiling manta rays, electric eels. But my favorite had to be the monitor lizard which seemed to detest the attention and a humongous crocodile who obviously wanted me for dinner as it snapped it jaws at the sight of me.
* A musical extravaganza.
As a college sophomore, my Asian Art teacher showed us a video of a performance featuring Korean drums. I remember that the performance was so amazing it had captured my undivided attention. After the video presentation, my teacher showed us slides of the different kinds of drums used and the names of the drums were similar to the sounds they produced.
In Seoul, we had the opportunity of actually seeing a Nanta performance. I could think of no better adjective to describe it except "captivating." There were about four drums, including a little metal one which made a high-pitched sound. Not only did the booms and bangs contribute to a frenzied atmosphere. The drummers themselves seemed possessed by the music. With their eyes closed, they would move their heads swiftly from side to side as they hit the drums. During the entire performance, I believe I did not move a single muscle.
Later on, one of them wore a hat with something like a white strand of thick string attached to the top of the hat. Then while playing the drum, he would move his head around, making the white strand revolve from side to side or around him. It was simply amazing and an act like that would certainly require perfect coordination!
* Being a kid again.
Dad played hooky from his conference and accompanied me to go to Lotte World Adventure Park and Magic Island. There, I became a little girl again. It has been so long since I relished riding a carousel and I did just that! I also got on my favorite ride, Lotte World's equivalent of EK's Flying Fiesta! I also got a little more risky by taking the Flume Ride, synonymous to EK's Jungle Log Jam and Star City's Wild River. My knees got all wobbly the minute I stepped out of the boat. Then I realized I was not THAT plucky to try the Gyro Drop and their rollercoaster whose whooshing sounds drowned out the screams of the passengers.
* A train by any other name...and a cruise too.
Seoul boasts of one of the most efficient railway systems in the world. I was itching to try their subway, composed of nine lines which are somehow interconnected with each other. The fare would be around 900 won per person (about 60 pesos) but it was so fast, it was a much better option than a taxi which has a flag down rate of 80-90 pesos. I was at first apprehensive to try the subway because a friend warned me that the exits could be confusing if you did not know where to head. But thanks to my trusty map, I did not get lost at all!
And just to digress, Seoul is a pretty big place. I could not figure out how in those TV dramas, the characters always end up meeting in some place. But heck yah! IT'S A TV DRAMA!
On our last night, we took a cruise along the river Han. The night time view of Seoul was simply amazing and breathtaking. I spent the entire time out on the deck, taking pictures.
* Gastronomical delight.
My lack of adventure in carnival rides I make up for through serious food tripping. In Korea, I had a taste of their famous bulgogi and chicken soup with ginseng. Chicken soup with ginseng was our first lunch in Seoul. I was particularly excited since I could use the metal chopsticks for the first time (which, I believe, are easier to use than wood or plastic). Also I had always been fascinated by their rice, which seems glutinous. The entire exercise of partaking the lunch was a full-scale battle. The soup was so hot, blowing it was not enough. It was also quite a challenge eating half a chicken with chopsticks, not to mention getting the entire thing into your stomach. The restaurant owner took pity on us and gave us forks eventually. However what was interesting was that while I tussled with my dead piece of poultry, I realized that the glutinous rice was buried deep inside the chicken! Then as I probed deeper, the strip of ginseng floated like a miniature piece of yellow log.
Bulgogi was so much more fun to eat. Marinated meat is barbecued right in front of you. It is so hot the entire meal doubles as steaming your face. Then the chunk of still steaming meat is placed in a piece of lettuce along with strips of random vegetables and some chili-like ingredient which I do not recognize at all. The trickier parts come next. The lettuce is then rolled and folded to encase the meat, vegetables and the sauce in a square lumpia. I find it easier to turn my lettuce into a paperbag. To eat, you push the entire blob into your mouth, no biting off allowed, then add a spoonful of rice. Goodah!
I also discovered a nice snack in Korea. One of dad's companions bought silkworm for 1000 won. I did not say this aloud but the deep-fried silkworm looked like mini cockroaches with their leg-like protrusions curled inwards.
* Getting through the language obstacle.
Most of the people I met in Korea did not speak English very well. They could understand what I was saying but it would be clearer for them if I added hand gestures. For instance in a restaurant, I was asking for directions to get to the washroom. She indicated that I go straight then right but spoke to me in Korean. In the train, an old lady tried asking me for directions but I apologized, saying I only spoke English.
In Doota, I was looking for souvenirs and the guy behind the counter was very helpful, speaking to me in halting English. I remember he started to look embarrassed and all of a sudden said in an amused tone, "I'm sorry, this is the only expression I know...ni hao ma?" I laughed and shook my head, saying I did not speak Mandarin. Apparently, he thought I was Chinese or Malaysian...he was not the last one.
* The DVD hunt.
One definite thing I wanted to buy in Korea was DVDs. It is very difficult to get LEGAL(!) copies of Korean movies and series in the Philippines, especially those which were were not aired by a local network. I have been itching to watch Marathon, a critically acclaimed film which stars another favorite actor, thespian Cho Seung-Woo. No copies have been available locally and I found a copy in Korea. I also bought a copy of The Classic!
But the DVD I really scoured Seoul to find was Mi Ahn Ha Da, Sarang Han Da (MISA). It was particularly difficult to find since most stores are out of stock. In COEX, I could not find it anywhere. In DVD shops in Dongdaemun and Namdaemun, it was not available too. The clerk in COEX even told me that I was not the only one desperately searching for a copy.
My friend suggested that I check out Technomart if there was an available copy. After shuffling between the 3rd, 4th and 6th floors, I finally found the DVD kiosks at the 8th floor. All but one had run out of stocks for MISA and in that one kiosk, it was the only copy left. Yes, that copy was truly meant for me!
* One race, two flags.
On our last day, we were able to take a trip to the Demilitarized Zone in Paju City. Video and photography were forbidden, except in places designated by the military. We were given the opportunity to go inside one of three infilatration tunnels built by North Korean forces in an attempt to penetrate the South. The part of the tunnel open to the public was about 350 meters long which was inclined at an angle of 0.3 degrees. It was very cold inside and as I walked, I began to envision myself as Jang Dong Gun or Won Bin in Taegukgi. If going down the tunnel was a challenge, going back up was agonizing. The entire walk was so long and tiresome, it is not recommended for people with claustrophobia and heart disease. The tunnel was built with a direction towards Seoul but was not finished because the Southern forces discovered this. When questioned, the North coated the walls with coal and explained that the tunnel was a coal mine.
For 500 won, you can rent a telescope which allows you to view the city of Kaesong in North Korea, the second largest city after Pyeongyang. Through the telescope, I saw the stark difference between Kaesong and Seoul. Seoul was progressive whereas Kaesong was more rural in appearance. Once again, the irony struck me. The North upholds the principles of communism, of equally dividing the resources for everybody. The South was more capitalistic and believed in fostering competition. But the South was roaring with progress whereas the North was sinking into a lull.
Our tour guide told us a story of an old man who used to sit on that observatory everyday. A soldier asked him what he was looking at. He responded that he left a wife and a 2-year old son in the North just before the war broke out. He bade them farewell in the morning because he had to work on a project in the South. He never got go back ever again and all his life, he has been tormented with thought of his wife and son, not knowing if they are alive or dead and what has become of them both.
There is a train station in Paju called Dorasan. By the looks of it, one would think the station is in use. There is a waiting area with blue chairs. A guard stands by the door and visitors can get their passports stamped. But what is most heart-wrenching is the sign at the entrance which, I suppose, leads to the train. The sign says "Pyeongyang." In the event that the two Koreas do unify, that guard will move aside and allow people to pass, taking the passengers to Pyeongyang, past the years of animosity and hatred. But as of now, the soldier remains at his post and the station's train and railway remain unused, silently waiting for the day the mythical bird appears.
And of course, like I said, my list of things to do became a list of things I have done.
* Eat kimchi.
As expected, the kimchi I tasted in Korea was extremely delicious. The blend of flavors was just right, it was lip-smacking. However I could not bring myself to eat kimchi in the morning as part of breakfast. That was the only time of day I did not have it in front of me.
* Get the 411 on tea drinking.
I did not get to attend a tea ceremony of sorts but in every meal, we were served a cup of tea. Tea was an essential part of every meal and was believed to aid digestion.
* Drink soju in a tent bar.
I did not get to drink soju but I did get to try something stronger: ginseng wine. In the chicken soup and ginseng restaurant, the meal was to be washed down by a shot of ginseng wine. I cautiously eyed the small ceramic cup filled with the clear, deceptive liquid up to the brim. I watched my dad take a sip and saw his face reduce itself into a series of tiny furrows. I took the cup and took the tiniest sip. It was like taking a swig at a bottle of rubbing alcohol. My eyes immedately began to water. Dad's co-delegates laughed at me, saying I need not worry since they could take turns giving me a piggy-back ride to the hotel.
* Watch a movie in a cineplex...WITHOUT SUBTITLES.
In COEX, I spent two hours inside a movie house. The minute I found out that The Duelist was still being shown, I decided against seeing April Snow and another movie which featured Kim Jung Eun in a May-December romance with a 17-year old teenager. I had a hankering for some action and besides, I figured The Duelist was a movie I could get through without being dependent on subtitles.
It was actually a generally entertaining movie, though I wish I could at least understand what was going on in terms of the conversations. However I did not need subtitles to deduce that Kang Dong-Won and Ha Ji-Won had a thing for each other even if one was a policewoman and the other was an assassin/swordsman.
* Visit a Buddhist temple or shrine.
Behind COEX was Bonggeunsa, one of the more popular temples in Seoul. It was indeed a retreat from the hustle and bustle of busy Gangnam. The place was quiet and solemn, full of devotees and worshippers. I just walked around, taking pictures here and there and I was wary of taking videos since I might offend some people.
* Have a picture taken wearing a hanbok.
This was one I was so desperate to do. We were practically running around the National Folk Museum I was unable to rent a hanbok and have a picture taken while I was wearing it. So I made up my mind to go to Lotte World where a friend of mine told me you could do that too.
I was greeted by a deluge of hanboks in all sorts of colors and designs. The lady gave me a dark green hanbok which, she said, was the costume of a queen during the old days. I did not choose that since that was the one my friend wore when she went there. I liked a navy blue hanbok with gold embroidery but I was worried it might look dull in the photographs. So I settled for a fuchsia pink and dark blue hanbok.
Walking around in a hanbok needs some getting used to. While I was looking for a nice photo spot while wearing the hanbok, I ran into a group of Koreans who were around my age. They looked like they were suppressing their laughter so I turned around and ran back to the lady with the hanboks. I ended up tripping on the dress four times. Thank God I did not rip the dress. Hmmm...I should practice with a blanket at home.
* Keep eyes peeled for movie stars.
Our tour guide said that Gangnam was a good place to spot movie stars. However I only knew the top-notch stars in Korea so the possibility of seeing Won Bin in the middle of the street would be close to impossible. My lack of visual tinseltown luster was made up for by the billboards and posters I saw there: Jang Dong-Gun for Anycall, Song Hye-Kyo, Kwon Sang-Woo and Bi for skin products, Kim Tae Hee for Samsung, Jung Woo-Sung for Giordano, Moon Geun-Young for pizza, Cho Seung-Woo and Kang Dong-Won for clothing...the list just goes on and on.
Star spotting, billboard style: Lee Dong-Gun for a mobile phone, "Sassy Girl" Jeon Ji-Hyun for
Olympus, Ha Ji-Won and Jo In-Sung for a hair salon and Kim Rae-Won and Im Soo-Jung
for the clothing company Clr!de.
* Go to places where some movies or series have been shot.
For my sister, this was the highlight of my trip. In Lotte World, the carousel I rode on was the one used for Stairway to Heaven. Shots of Choi Ji-Woo and Kwon Sang-Woo were also taken in the skating rink of Lotte World.
Scenes from MISA (top to bottom): In the pedestrian lane where Moo-hyuk came upon a drunk
Eun-chae; Yoon's house; the overpass where Moo-hyuk received a call from Eun-chae.
I do hope to get to go back to Seoul, especially with my mom and my sister. When I was there, I was taught how to correctly pronounce "Gahpsamnida." The bowing while saying "Annyeong haseyo" was so infectious, I soon found myself doing that when I was greeted. In Korea, my adventurous and crazier side took over and it has since taken a backseat when I arrived home. I was telling my dad that not getting to see Ji Sup in person was one of the many indications that I indeed had many reasons to go back. And besides, I had staked my claim on a sidewalk bench near our hotel. Every night, I would go out and just sit there in a warm sweater, and feel the breeze blowing at my face. For some reason, sitting on that bench made me feel I was truly in Korea. I hope that bench is waiting for my return someday.
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